Bar do Mineiro vs Bar do Gomez
I'm probably running the risk of a public flogging by saying this, but I think Bar do Mineiro, Santa Teresa's most celebrated bar, is vastly overrated.It's very much an institution up here in arty, bohemian Santa (as the locals like to call the place), and attracts vast hordes of the neighbourhood's most fashionable every night of the week.
The trouble is, as a foreigner it's a little difficult to see the appeal. The white tiled walls and black and white photographs of Brazilian musicians are pleasant enough, but the harsh lighting does little to encourage a relaxed drinking atmosphere. Drinks are somewhat overpriced, as is the food, which is not a patch on the much-cheaper meals served down the road at Bar do Arnaudo. Service is functional but nothing more.
In addition, the chairs are uncomfortable and there's little leg room under the tables - if more than a couple of people are sitting there you'll spend the whole evening apologising for kicking your friends' legs.
To my mind, there are far superior drinking spots in Santa Teresa, the most obvious being Bar do Gomez. Here, drinks are cheaper, the atmosphere is relaxed, service is friendly and the place is packed with all kinds of eccentric characters (half of whom are working behind the bar). The food's good here too, and there's a covered space outside for drinking your beers on the street when things get crowded indoors. However, Rio locals tend to define themselves by where they socialise - whether it's a particular spot ('Posto') on Ipanema beach, or a particular bar in Santa Teresa. It seems that, by affiliating themselves with Bar do Mineiro, locals like to think they are making the statement that they are fashionable, arty, and politically conscious. Personally, I'd rather drink in comfort among the assorted eccentrics in Bar do Gomez, who care very little about what social labels are attached to them.