Beco do Rato
The bar's name - 'Rat Alley' in Portuguese - is less than glamorous, but Beco do Rato is one of the best spots in Rio to hear live samba music.Located on a sidestreet in the heart of Lapa, the bar is one of the few places in the city that doesn't impose an 'artistic cover' charge, and consequently is absolutely packed with locals at weekends.
The vibe here is relaxed and casual, and you'll find everybody from university students to ageing hippies drinking, eating and dancing here.
On the wall is a huge mural depicting famous samba artists aboard the legendary Santa Teresa tram, and the venue has been known to attract some big names from the Brazilian music scene.
Beco do Rato is open Thursday - Saturday from 8pm to 2am, and it's worth arriving early to grab a table and order a snack before the crowds arrive (the portion of pasties with chicken is a good bet).
Things start to get lively after around 11am, and after midnight you'll have to fight for space on the dancefloor - the house band here is exceptionally good, and plays a crowd-pleasing set of covers, including numbers originally recorded by the likes of Jorge Ben and Os Mutantes.
Beco do Rato is located at Rua Joaquim Silva 11, Centro. It's best to take a taxi here if you're unfamiliar with the area, as it's not the best place to be wandering around looking lost. Credit and debit cards are accepted here, so there's no need to be carrying a lot of cash.