I've had several visitors in the thirteen months that I've been in Paris, but I had managed to avoid going to the top of the Eiffel Tower. Sure, I have been to the Champs de Mars many times and always admire the place of the tower in the skyline, but the thought of standing in line with tourists to take the elevators up to the observation decks fills me with dread. However, my most recent guest wanted to spend the last evening of her visit at the top of the Eiffel Tower, and I didn't have the heart to say no to her genuine enthusiasm for all things Parisian.
This is how we came to be looking for an affordable dining option in the 7th arrondissement on Friday night. I didn't have much hope that we would find something that wasn't an overpriced tourist restaurant in the this neighborhood, but the restaurant gods smiled on us and led us to Les Cocottes de Christian Constant in rue Saint-Dominique. Christian Constant is a kind of celebrity chef here, and in true celebrity chef-fashion he has several restaurants, all of which are in the rue Saint-Dominique. Les Cocottes is the casual (for Paris), affordable (for Paris) option, designed to be "'a hip, French version of an American diner."
The long, narrow, modern room with grey counters, dark brown shelves and green lighting is like no diner I've ever seen before. Diners, sophisticated young locals, sit on tall stools at the counter or communal tables. A cocotte is a casserole dish and many of the menu choices are prepared and served these individual-sized cast-iron baking dishes. By the time we ordered, the main course of the day was sold out, but there were plenty of good choices on the menu. I had a chicken soup with Thai broth, Chinese noodles and peas, and my friend had cod with carrots and potatoes. For dessert we had red fruit crumble, also served in its baking dish. Two red wines and two whites are available by the glass or pitcher, and there's a well-edited wine list as well.
The restaurant does not take reservations. We were seated immediately when we arrived at 8:00pm on Friday, but we would have had to wait if we had arrived just fifteen minutes later. The service at Les Cocottes ranged from charming and rushed to just plain rushed. If you go, you should know that it is VERY difficult to look sophisticated and graceful while trying to climb into your seat.
Although it's not technically a diner, Les Cocottes' emphasis on simple preparations of fresh, seasonal ingredients sets it apart from restaurants not just in the neighborhood but in all of Paris and it's certainly your best option near the Eiffel Tower. I can't wait to go back to try Chef Constant's other restaurants on the block. I may even willing escort future guests up the Eiffel Tower, just for the excuse to come here for dinner.
http://www.leviolondingres.com/eng_cocottes.htm
135, rue Saint-Dominique, 7th
T: 01 45 50 10 31
Lunch: 12 noon – 2.30pm
Dinner: 19.15 – 23hrs
Open every day
Average price: 15-30€