Exploring Jardim Botanico
A trip to Rio’s lush botanic gardens should feature on any visitor’s itinerary and, once you’ve made the bus ride out there, it’s well worth taking the time to explore the wider Jardim Botanico neighbourhood. With its wide, tree-lined streets, mansion houses and abundance of quality restaurants, this well-heeled neighbourhood offers plenty to attract the eye and tempt the palate.
Of course, any visit to the neighbourhood should begin with a trip to the botanical gardens themselves. The antique gardens, inaugurated in 1808 in honour of King Don Joao IV, are home to some 8,000 species of plants, and tropical birds flit among the exotic vegetation. The park was brought bang up to date earlier this year with the introduction of a new museum dedicated to climate change and environmental matters – the first museum of its kind in Brazil. There are two cafes within the park – the first, close to the entrance, offers very tasty but overpriced sandwiches, salads etc, while a cheaper snack bar in the centre of the park is the place to come for burgers, hot dogs and other guilt-inducing treats. Entrance to the park is R$8.
Most people take the bus straight back to their hotel after visiting the gardens – more fool them. Within five minutes walk of the Botanical Gardens is Parque Lage, home to various trails and walkways, man-made caves, mini-waterfalls, small aquarium, and one of the most picture-perfect buildings in Rio. Café Lage and the Escola de Artes Visuais are housed in a wonderful Belle Epoque mansion, fronted by a rectangular pool of water (it’s too shallow to be classed as a swimming pool). Together,the water and the building make a wonderful photo opportunity – in fact, hip hop fans may recognise the image from Pharell and Snoop Dogg’s Rio-based video accompanying the single Beautiful.
Jardim Botanico is also a must-visit neighbourhood for fans of fine dining. Here you’ll find a high concentration of top-end eateries, including Olympe – widely regarded as offering the best French cuisine in Rio. Those whose budget won’t stretch to Olympe should make their way to 66 Bistro – this mid-priced, relaxed restaurant is owned by Claude Trosgrois, head chef at Olympe, and the kitchen is headed up by his son Tom. The set lunch menus here are very good value. Other top-end options include superior Chinese food at Mr Lam, mouthwatering Italian food at Quadrifologio, and pan-national dishes at Roberta Sudbrack. If money really is no option, call ahead at Roberta Sudbrack to request the 14-course degustation menu.