FROM TULIPS TO JUDAS TREES--THE CITY'S ABLOOM
Aaahhh. Istanbul's spectral sprays of fragrant flowers. They sprout from every parterre, along roadsides, and municipal parks.
It's rambles of roses in May, explosions of pink Judas trees in April, titillating tulips in late March, even rhododendrons rear their enormous pastel florets in late spring.
As if Istanbul wasn't enticing enough, colorful enough on its own, Mayor Kadir Topbas continually nudges this city's natural fauna by supplementing any open scape with seasonal buds in gorgeously landscaped plots.
Take the tulip, for instance, my choice blossom. Since 2006, its beauty's been heralded annually with a festival that showcases some 3 million buds planted just about everywhere.
One of Istanbul's icon, the tulip claimed its spot in the heart of 15th century Ottoman noblity after being imported from its indigenous Iran. This adoration popped up on crystallerie, silks and Iznik tiles--still seen throughout the city's grand mosques. It's said that the 16th century Dutch ambassador to Turkey Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, a floral esthete at heart, was so taken by the inoderous blossom--called Lale in Turkish--that he just had to take a sample home. And the rest is history! Ironically, the municipality of Istanbul actually purchases tulip bulbs from Holland.
One of the best places to take in this revived tulip mania in April--or roses, in May and June--is at the Göztepe Gülbahçesi, or along the coastal road that lines the Asian flank of the Aegean. To get there, hop on an IDO boat aimed for Kadikoy from any point in the city. Once there, walk to the BOSTANCI-KADIKOY dolmus stop located about 150 feet to the right. Wait for the vehicle to fill, pay the 1.75TL fare and request to be dropped off at the Göztepe Gülbahçesi park near Caddebostan. To check out the miles of blooms along the Aegean coast's Sahil Yolu, just amble about a mile in the opposite direction to gain the esplanade, where more species are sure to delight. Oh, and bring a camera!
While most rave about the tulip, the annual blooming of the Judas trees--a showy native of the Med region--is gorgeous as well. The tree grows ubiquitously on the hilly banks of the Bosphorus, along most undeveloped spots--if there are still any in town, and in parks and gardens. It's a small tree that truly doesn't resemble much during the year, but once it blooms around April its branches explode in a breathtaking magenta pink hue.
STRICTLY SPEAKING
çiçek--flower (Pron. tchitchek)