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Happy hour in Cinelandia
Brazilians love to relax with a beer and a meal after work, and nowhere is this better illustrated than at Amarelinho, a bar/restaurant that enjoys possibly the best location in central Rio.
The yellow plastic tables and chairs of this informal boteco sit directly on the flagstones of the always-lively Praça da Floriana, and if you tire of people-watching then the imposing Theatro Municipal (the ornate theatre that, although it has seen better days, remains one of the city's finest buildings) and the stately Biblioteca Nacional are sure to catch your eye.
Always busy at lunchtimes and after work, Amarelhino serves perfectly chilled chopp (draught beer), along with a vast array of meals and bar snacks. Hearty portions of traditional Brazilian food such as chicken or beef with rice, fries and farofa (toasted manioc flour) are served here, and credit is due to the proprietors for keeping prices reasonable despite the prime location.
Brazilians use the English phrase 'happy hour' to describe their post-work drinking and socialising, but in truth they tend to stretch this 'hour' out well into the night. After a hard day's sightseeing in Centro, pull up a chair here at around 5pm, before the post-work hordes arrive, order a cold chopp, and soak up the atmosphere as the sun sets over the square, and the tables and chairs fill up with Cariocas keen to drink, chat, flirt and generally unwind after a day in the office. The bar is open weeknights until 1am, and it's just a couple of minutes' walk (or stumble...) to the Metro station.
One word of advice - don't confuse Amarelhino with Vermelinho, next door - they look virtually identical, but Amarelinho boasts better food, beer and service. You'll find the bar at Praça Floriano, 55, Cinelândia.