MARVELOUS MIKLA
Mikla is bar none Istanbul's top rated eatery. This comes as no surprise since Finnish-Turkish celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs 's not only steering this restaurant's ascent but is also contributing heftily to the city's renown as one of Europe's top foodie capitals. Istanbul's culinary landscape is so dynamic that a restaurant that was in a month ago can be relegated to the sidelines just as quickly. But Gurs --- knowing full well the task at hand -- remains forever "the" lauded innovator. His slyly crafted seasonal dishes consistently meet the strict requirements of gourmets worldwide by being attuned to what foodies want now.
And for the moment, considering the sharp downturn of the global economy and diners' demand for atmosphere, Mikla perfectly answers the beckoning call. The somewhat pricey fare's eye-pleasingly unpretentious -- no architectural elements here. What it may or may not lack in structure it makes up for it in spades with innovative presentations and complex textures and tastes.
This season's menu exemplifies this richness with the ubiquitous hamsi (anchovy) in a nod to Turkey's Black Sea region. While every diner doles out this marine delicacy in fried heaps come winter, Gurs recast the idea and fished out Hamsi Crisps -- a brittle entremets highlighted solely by a wedge of lemon and a rectangular serving plate. This decadent expleriment's become the talk of Istanbul's foodie circles, and is well worth the trip to Beyoglu's heights.
This season's other winner is Gurs' Beef Cheek Pot-au-Feu. It's a small roast portion that's been boiled will crisp veggies to create the French one-dish meal. I've had it -- and made it -- more times than I can count, but this version takes the cake for the tenderness of its meat. Forget chewing, the flesh literally melts in the mouth. To clear out the palate, Mikla somelier Sabiha Apaydin suggested a robust Chilean red, Caballo Loco No. 9.
Gurs's gift for innovatively recreating Turkish cuisine comes thorugh yet again in the desserts menu. Of the four htat I sampled, the Anis and Deveci Pear Terrine, with a refreshing side scoop of Basil Ice Cream and a divinely rich Vanilla Cream to douse the whole bowled me over.
Esconced somewhere on the top floor of the Marmara Pera Hotel in Tepebasi, Mikla's high above the soaring minarets of historical Sultanhamet and the Golden Horn estuary. It's a magical location any time of the year with breathtaking views of the eons-old city far below, should one care to look away from the plate.
If heading to this destination on the weekend come armed with a reservation. Also, Mikla's popularity with international food critics has made it the choice for tourists; it's not the place to dine in amongst the indigenes.
Mikla, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Tepebasi; tel: 0212.251.4646; www.istanbuliyi.com
ESSENTIALS
Tasting menu - 110TL (72USD); Tasting menu with beverages - 190TL (124USD); Mains - 36 - 93.50TL (24 - 62USD); Wine by the glass - 9-28 TL
STRICTLY SPEAKING
GOOD EVENING = IYI AKSAMLAR (Pron. eeyee ahkshamlar)