MODA-A DISTINCTIVE QUARTER IN ANATOLIA
The prettiest enclave on Istanbul's Anatolian coast, Moda boasts tons of cafés, a park, some history, and a breathless view of Sultanahmet just across the Bosphorus
Set amongst plane trees, the enclave of Moda was known for the retired army generals who called the pretty grid home. Today, its streets are filled with sidewalk cafés that get jammed packed come the first days of summer.
Moda's nostalgic atmosphere continues on its headland with a few tea gardens overlooking the Sea of Marmara and Kalamis Bay. About a dozen stalls selling homemade jewelry and knick-knacks--pashminas and hats--border the alley along the teahouses. There's also a child's park, where mommies and nannies play ball with toddlers, and just refurbished buffet. The rocks that line the sea have inspired romanticism for generations; many an elder has proposed to his significant other at this very spot.
Koço, Moda's 80-year-old fish restaurant, is famous among old Istanbullus for Its fried calamari and tarator sauce, as well as its fried Albanian liver served with thin slices of raw onion. Everyone knows about the spectacular view of the Sea of Marmara and Princes' Islands from its lofty terrace, but few are aware of the tiny Orthodox sanctuary hidden beneath its main dining room. It's been there for eons and the diner's been evolving around it.
Moda's also the place for ice cream. Ali Usta and his team of brothers, sons and nephews scoop out more than four dozens flavors, like mastic and sour cherry, to awaiting crowds.
Little remains of Moda's famous beaches--like Kadinlar Plaji--where young ladies until the late 40s would bask in the sun while wannabe suitors dived artistically on either side to gain their attention. Now a coastal road replaces the wooden docks which doubled as a sunbathing pier.
But the best thing to do in Moda remains watching the sun set bright red over the minarets and domes of historical Sultanahmet. Alternatively, it's also a great spot to watch the full moon rise overKalamis Bay to the east.
ESSENTIALS
If traveling from the European side, hop on a ferry boat to Kadikoy. Once there, turn right until you see the pedestrian esplanade that hugs the Sea of Marmara. Walk about 15 minutes and you'll see a grassy hill. Climb the stairs and you'll arrive in the historical Moda Tea garden.
STRICTLY SPEAKING
Sun = Gunes (pron. gunesh)