Museum Amstelkring: Our Lord in the Attic
Climb the narrow back staircase to the secret room in the attic, known as Ons Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic). The room is a stunning little church that recalls the days when Catholics weren't allowed to practice their religion freely.
In 16th century Catholicism toppled in many European countries. Spain's Catholic Habsburg rulers fought and protested vehemently against the Protestant Reformation. At first, Holland sided with Spain but towards the end of the 16th century Holland shifted allegiance. The result was that Catholics were forbidden to practice their religion openly. Mass was said in secret churches hidden in private houses of rich Amsterdamers.
Ons Lieve Heer op Solder is the last remaining one of these clandestine churches. Tucked away in a 17th century canal house with two smaller houses at the rear, the combined attics provide just enough space for the secret church and a box bedroom under the stairs for the residing priest. Two wooden confessionals occupy the landing with just enough room for sinners to squeeze in. The church is remarkably large for such a makeshift place. The pulpit is stored under the altar. Galleries suspended from the roof allowed more people to attend the service. The Trompe l'oeil marble altar and the altar piece above it depicts objects and pillars that appear to be three dimensional but instead are two-dimensional paintings. This illusion are known as Witjes, named after the painter Jacob de Wit who was a master of this technique.
In addition to viewing the church, you may visit the house itself with on the lower floor of the museum is a 19th century kitchen with a Delft-tile fireplace and a typically Dutch black-and-white tile floor. The opulent drawing room dates back to the 17th century, decorated and furnished in the rigid Dutch classical school of design. Symmetry was of utmost importance, so much so that that the room contains a false door added for the sake of proportion.
The museum is a well-kept secret. This is good news because it means no queues like those I found at the equally fascinating but better known Anne Frankhuis and van Gogh Museums.
address: Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40
Open: Mon -Sat. 10.00 - 17.00
Sundays and public holidays 13.00 - 17.00
Closed 1 January and 30 April
http://www.museumamstelkring.nl