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Rio's jazziest guest house
Imagine the scene: assorted artists, writers and musicians sit sipping red wine, listening to live jazz and enjoying a view over twinkling harbour lights to Sugar Loaf mountain. OK, now imagine all this happening at the top of one of Rio de Janeiro’s notorious favelas, or shanty towns. Sounds unlikely? Then you need to take a trip to The Maze Inn. This unique guesthouse and occasional live music spot is located at the top of a favela that clings to a hillside behind the downtown neighbourhood of Catete. Here you can hear live jazz each Friday, as local musicians and visitors take to the stage to perform improvised yet sophisticated sessions. ’Casa do Bob’, as it’s known to locals, was opened in 2005 by Bob Nadkarni, a charismatic English artist and musician who has lived in Rio de Janeiro for some 30 years, and has many tales to tell about his time here. While The Maze’s favela location is off-putting to many locals, it has proved a big draw for foreign visitors curious to learn more about life in Rio’s slums. The favela in question is, by Rio standards, safe. Narco-trafficking is virtually non-existent here, and the community is well accustomed to guests wandering in and out of the pousada. The space itself is wonderful - the views from the deck are stunning, and Nadkarni’s paintings (many of which are available to buy) cover much of the wall space. The Maze is easily reached by taxi, and those who wish to attend the Friday night jazz jams can take advantage of a free combi van service to and from Catete. Rates for rooms start at R$100 for a double, R$80 for a single, and drinks prices start at R$6 for a glass of - well, this is a jazz club - red or white wine. Entrance to the jazz night is R$10. For more information on the guest house and/or the live music programme, visit www.jazzrio.com