Where to Stay in Buenos Aires?. There is no simple answer to this question. It all depends on what type of person you are, and what you want to get out of your visit to Buenos Aires. The following is a brief description of the main areas to stay in Buenos Aires to help you choose.
Microcentro (Downtown): This area is obviously central. For many travellers this is ideal, and it will put you close to major tourist attractions such as the Obelisco, Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada, the Cathedral, Avenida de Mayo, el Congreso, calle Florida, calle Corrientes, el Teatro Colón, el café Tortoni and a whole lot more. It is also very easy to get around on the subte (subway) system, which serves this area well, as opposed to most other parts of Buenos Aires. However, in the other hand this area is also the most busy, noisy, polluted, with dangerous traffic, and lacking in space. You have to weigh up these pros and cons to make your decision.
Recoleta, Retiro, Puerto Madero, Barrio Norte (North): These are the most exclusive areas of Buenos Aires (particularly Recoleta), where you will find first class hotels such the Alvear, Hyatt, Four Seasons, Hilton and the Plaza. Although they obviously are pricey. In keeping with the exclusivity of these areas, you will also find some of the best shopping centres, leather shops, cafés, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, art galleries, and parks in Buenos Aires. Also, you would be fairly close to the unique Cementerio de la Recoleta, where the popular Evita's grave is found among many other amazingly decadent mausoleums of the rich and famous.
Palermo (a little further North): This is the largest barrio of Buenos Aires, mainly filled with peaceful green parks. And so it can be one of the most relaxed areas to base yourself in. Among the parks you will find the Rosedal (Rose Garden), the Botanic Gardens, the Japanese Gardens and the Buenos Aires Zoo. Parts of Palermo, such as Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho, are also fast becoming the trendiest parts of Buenos Aires, with lots of fashionable bars, nightclubs, restaurants, boutique hotels and small designer label shops. Finally, Palermo is well served by subte linea D (Green Line), which conveniently takes you into downtown, as well as the hundreds of colectivo lines. Palermo is great for both families and young couples alike, and is a very popular place for visitors renting a Buenos Aires apartment.
Belgrano (even further North): this is actually a more residential kind of area. It has a very large main shopping street, but not much else for tourists to see except the Chinatown. You can also find very busy streets here, but if you move a little far from avenida Cabildo (the main street) you can find more laid back areas. It is recommended because it is very close to the subte, and it has much less expensive hotels and rentals than palermo (which has raised to the "fashionable" level by now). Las Cañitas is a small enclave within Belgrano, bordering Palermo, often considered a barrio in itself. Here you will find the famous Polo Field as well as some of the hippest bars and restaurants in the city. Undoubtedly one of the best areas to base any stay in Buenos Aires. The cons is that it is a bit farther away than other barrios, so you will be traveling 30 to 45 minutes each way, daily.
San Telmo and Monserrat (go South): These adjoining areas of Buenos Aires, just south of the Microcentro, are the most historic areas of the city. The old town, if you like. Here is where it all began, and is where some of the few remaining colonial buildings can be found, mixed in with some beautiful art nouveau and gothic styles from the preceding periods, all in a state of distinctive decaying grandeur. There are also some cobbled streets and historic churches. The rich of Buenos Aires used to live in San Telmo back in the 19th century until a yellow fever outbreak in 1871 forced them to move away from the lowland river to their current location in Recoleta. These days, San Telmo is the home to modern Argentine Tango. Here you will find many Tango shows, clubs, schools, street performers and even Tango hotels. Sunday in San Telmo's plaza Dorrego sees one of the most famous street market (lots of antiques), along with the compulsory outdoor Tango dancers and singers. Neighbouring Monserrat has similar architecture, and some of the most interesting churches in the city. However, these areas can be quite dangerous at night, and a little on the dirty side, so please bear that in mind before deciding on a hotel in this more characteristic part of town.
Well, those are the main areas to consider. There are others, but these are where most travellers will consider staying.
Beginning January 9, 2009, Argentina will implement a reciprocal tourist fee. This fee will only be imposed on those foreigners whose country of residence charges Argentines a fee to enter their country such as the United States, Canada, Australia, and many more. In the case of US citizens, that fee will be approximately u$d 134 which is the same fee that Argentines are charged when they apply for a visa to visit the United States of America. There still won't be a visa requirement and the Argentine government simply considers it fair to charge US citizens the same way that the US charges Argentines. The big question is whether this will cover tourists for a set amount of time, say five years. It looks like it will be that way somehow. This is going to hurt Argentina's tourism far more than it will help it. On the other hand, most Argentines can't afford to even get on a plane, let alone pay the cost of an US visa, or prove that they have adequate resources to even apply for a visa and be accepted (most foreigners who come from "underdeveloped countries" are suspect of wanting to overstay their visas). So u$d 134 for a traveler who can afford a plane fare that is most likely over u$s 1,000 is an inconvenience and may mean a few fewer steaks and bottles of wine, but lets keep things in perspective, eh?
New Year's Eve in Buenos Aires is much like Christmas Eve, with families staying in to enjoy a special meal together, eating and drinking until late in the night. Clubs open well passed midnight and the most popular charge a ridiculous fee. Since New Years can often be a disappointment, all the pressure to have a fabulous night often means you don't. Maybe the best choice is to just take it easy and stay close to home with some good friends. The scene at midnight in the streets is more like this: families, friends, people of all ages gathered in the warm night to watch fireworks explode all around. Children set off startlingly loud firecrackers, and sparklers are passed around, filling the night with their glittering charm. All around in the distance colorful explosions of colossal fireworks mark the arrival of a new year, and new possibilities. The excitement and energy is palpable. If you decide to roam the streets you may stumbled upon a makeshift block party, specially in the barrios. It is quite normal to find a crowd of people who put a small sound system pointed into the street bumping Latin music hits for all to enjoy. Just loose yourself and join the dancing revelers. The truth is that on almost any night of the year you can go to a big club and dance and drink with porteños, and it is fun. But for this one night of the year it is truly special to be a part of a community celebration, complete with young kids and old couples, locals, tourists, and all. You can dance for hours until slowly people start to drift, to continue the festivities at other parties or clubs, or dragg their tired feet home to sleep, or wander into the night with new lovers. If you are in town and you catch the drift you most like will have a great time. Happy New Year!
The 2009 edition of the Dakar Rally Race will take place in Argentina and Chile from the 3rd to the 18th of January, in an amazing course of close to 6000 kilometers of specials and difficulties scattered between Buenos Aires and Valparaiso, then back to Buenos Aires. The Dakar rally, the legendary event of the off-road rally discipline, will for the first time move to South America in 2009. During the last thirty years, the race has forged itself a legendary reputation on the African territory that helped it grow and become one of the major events of the international calendar. A first choice sporting competition that mixes great champions and amateurs, the event has become extremely international throughout the years, uniting up to 52 different nationalities. The Dakar will cross over the Atlantic Ocean for its 2009 edition. On the morning of January 3rd, 530 teams will take off from Buenos Aires, start and finish place of the race: 230 motorbikes, 30 quads, 188 cars and 82 trucks, representing 49 nationalities. First they will all head south towards the landscapes of Patagonia. The drivers and riders will then have to cross the Andes Mountains before enjoying a rest day at Valparaiso on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. The return trip will take them to the Atacama Desert and through the Argentinean provinces of Catamarca, of Rioja and of Cordoba. All in all they will travel across the provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa, Río Negro, Chubut, Neuquén, Mendoza, Catamarca, La Rioja, Córdoba and Santa Fe.
For more information, route maps and news, visit Dakar 2009 Rally official website.
The Argentimes is a bi-weekly newspaper dedicated to the younger crowd of English-speakers in Buenos Aires. It covers topics including culture, economics, politics, the environment, and the social life of Argentines. Written by young people for young people, it is a great way to plug into Argentine youth culture. And the best part? It is free! Check their website for their distribution points or just download the .pdf file of each edition.
If you like books, there is a bookstore in Buenos Aires you must visit. El Ateneo is one of the most important bookshops franchises in Argentina. A few years ago, El Ateneo-Yenny (the Argentine version of Barnes & Nobles) bought the old Grand Splendid cinema, which was in ruins. Located on Avenida Santa Fe between calle Riobamba and Avenida Callao, it opened as a theatre back in 1919. It soon made the switch to become one of the premier movie theatres in Buenos Aires. The first motion picture with sound was shown here in 1929. After various uses, it was restored maintaining the old structure and converted into one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Come enjoy a bookstore with a difference. The hall is huge and under a gorgeously restored dome-shaped ceiling. The numerous sections of books are located where the audience used to sit as well as on the beautiful balconies of the old theatre. The stage has been replaced by a nice and quiet bar where you can sit and have something to drink or eat while browsing a book. A pianist plays there on weekends. It has a fantastic atmosphere. You can find books in Spanish, English, French, Italian, Portuguese and even some in German and other languages. You'll certainly find what you like and prices are good. You may also be lucky enough to catch a local famous writer giving a speech or signing books, from Ernesto Sábato to Quino. You really shouldn't miss coming here, and you will not find this tip in most guidebooks.