Local Expert
Jessica Tamtürk
Welcome to PlanetEye's Istanbul City Guide! My name is Jessica Tamtürk and I'll share with you insider's tips on how you can make the most of your trip to this intercontinental city.
Originally from…
Welcome to PlanetEye's Istanbul City Guide! My name is Jessica Tamtürk and I'll share with you insider's tips on how you can make the most of your trip to this intercontinental city.
Originally from Belgium, I now call Istanbul one of my home bases; the other being Los Angeles, California, the place where I grew up.
Whether you hail from the European or American continent, my roots – biological and experiential – makes me the virtual guide with the most to help you conquer this metropolis of over 15 million.
What you'll get through these pages is my unbiased opinion of destinations, hotels, and restaurants. You may even learn a little Turkish in the process through my STRICTLY SPEAKING segments at the end of each post. I'm a stickler for responsible tourism; that means that I firmly believe that the industry should integrate with a country rather than the destination complying itself to the whims of its yearly visitors. I hope you'll agree and use the language tool to mingle with the natives. You'll be glad you did!
Aside from keeping you updated on the ins and outs of the greatest city in the world (at least I think so), I'm hard at work developing a first edition, 500-page travel guide to Turkey for Avalon Travel Publishing.
If you like what you're reading, have a question or just need general info on Istanbul, then by all means drop me a line by visiting my website....
STRICTLY SPEAKING
Hos Geldiniz = Welcome!!!! (pron. Hosh Geldiniz) –
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Tired of another industrialized hotel breakfast on Sunday? Does indulging in sights, tastes and sounds, with a sprinkle of shopping and people-gazing, sound interesting? Well, then aim your fork to Ortaköy, to the brunch buffet proffered at House Café to be precise.
Once there, start with a feasible plan of action. There are more than 40 tantalizing platters. Launch the gourmandise with the totally Turkish breakfast of creamy feta and robust kasar, dollops of syrupy fruit jams, farm-fresh tomatoes and crispy cucumbers, with a the house's blended çay and piles of crusty breads, flaky croissants, or the sesame-incrusted tea ring (simit), of course. Opt next for a serving of indigenous pogaca (flaky and buttery cheese roll) and the strictly Anatolian su boregi (layers of boiled philo baked with cheese and butter). But wait, that's only two outings and there's a lot left to conquer. After a digestive pause gazing at the effervescent waters of the Bosphorus from your terrace table, head back in the dining room for a European entree of cold meats -- paper-thin prosciutto and tender slices of roast beef -- mixed with an array of mozerella mini-burgers and veggie quiches. Or if you can't handle the weight, choose for the lighter option of yogurt doused with amber honey.
Then comes desserts. And House's sweet kebab does the trick with skewered layers of meringue and tarts held in place with luscious organic strawberries; the whole made even more tantalizing with a demitase of crerma-topped espresso.
This four-hour, all-you-can-eat gluttonous feast will set you back 50 Turkish liras. Afterwards, you can either walk it off wiht an amble along Ortakoy's cobbled streets, its exclusive shops and its weekly market.
Just one suggestion, however, come hungry!
ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS: Salhane Sokak No: 1 Ortaköy Istanbul
PHONE: +090.212.227.2699
HOURS: Mon. - Thurs. 9am - 1am; Fri. - Sat. 9 am - 2 am; Sun. 9am - Midnight
STRICTLY SPEAKING
CHEESE = PEYNIR (Pron. payhneer)
Mikla is bar none Istanbul's top rated eatery. This comes as no surprise since Finnish-Turkish celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs 's not only steering this restaurant's ascent but is also contributing heftily to the city's renown as one of Europe's top foodie capitals. Istanbul's culinary landscape is so dynamic that a restaurant that was in a month ago can be relegated to the sidelines just as quickly. But Gurs --- knowing full well the task at hand -- remains forever "the" lauded innovator. His slyly crafted seasonal dishes consistently meet the strict requirements of gourmets worldwide by being attuned to what foodies want now.
And for the moment, considering the sharp downturn of the global economy and diners' demand for atmosphere, Mikla perfectly answers the beckoning call. The somewhat pricey fare's eye-pleasingly unpretentious -- no architectural elements here. What it may or may not lack in structure it makes up for it in spades with innovative presentations and complex textures and tastes.
This season's menu exemplifies this richness with the ubiquitous hamsi (anchovy) in a nod to Turkey's Black Sea region. While every diner doles out this marine delicacy in fried heaps come winter, Gurs recast the idea and fished out Hamsi Crisps -- a brittle entremets highlighted solely by a wedge of lemon and a rectangular serving plate. This decadent expleriment's become the talk of Istanbul's foodie circles, and is well worth the trip to Beyoglu's heights.
This season's other winner is Gurs' Beef Cheek Pot-au-Feu. It's a small roast portion that's been boiled will crisp veggies to create the French one-dish meal. I've had it -- and made it -- more times than I can count, but this version takes the cake for the tenderness of its meat. Forget chewing, the flesh literally melts in the mouth. To clear out the palate, Mikla somelier Sabiha Apaydin suggested a robust Chilean red, Caballo Loco No. 9.
Gurs's gift for innovatively recreating Turkish cuisine comes thorugh yet again in the desserts menu. Of the four htat I sampled, the Anis and Deveci Pear Terrine, with a refreshing side scoop of Basil Ice Cream and a divinely rich Vanilla Cream to douse the whole bowled me over.
Esconced somewhere on the top floor of the Marmara Pera Hotel in Tepebasi, Mikla's high above the soaring minarets of historical Sultanhamet and the Golden Horn estuary. It's a magical location any time of the year with breathtaking views of the eons-old city far below, should one care to look away from the plate.
If heading to this destination on the weekend come armed with a reservation. Also, Mikla's popularity with international food critics has made it the choice for tourists; it's not the place to dine in amongst the indigenes.
Mikla, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Tepebasi; tel: 0212.251.4646; www.istanbuliyi.com
ESSENTIALS
Tasting menu - 110TL (72USD); Tasting menu with beverages - 190TL (124USD); Mains - 36 - 93.50TL (24 - 62USD); Wine by the glass - 9-28 TL
STRICTLY SPEAKING
GOOD EVENING = IYI AKSAMLAR (Pron. eeyee ahkshamlar)
Çiragan Palace Kempinski's lauded as the "Ultimate Luxury Hotel", a regal residence that was immaculately rebuilt in the 90s from the sooty remains of the last Ottoman palace built on the shores of the Bosphorus. It's decadently posh; it's over-the-top classic glitz are the must for moneyed travelers searching for the ultimate water-lapped digs while in exotic Stambul.
So it's fitting that the property also boasts two world-class restaurants -- Laledan and Tugra -- that serve fish fare indigenous to the surrounding waters and Ottoman cuisine, respectively. But forget about the reviews you may have read from other traveling scribes ranting about Laledan's spectacular meat dishes and tantalizing desserts; its carte was tweaked just over a year ago to focus primarily on marine cuisine -- obvious effort to make the locale stand out from the property's other distinctive diner.
And that it does supremely well with a delicate menu, indelible dishes, and a gilded atmosphere by the straits that'll tax even the deepest of wallets. And for just cause.... The inspiration for Laledan's broad array of meze -- typical, yet exquisitely crafted -- originates from the culinarily-renown island of Cunda off of Ayvalik's coast. Aegan cuisine at its mouth-watering best, boasting a splendid panoply of herbs cloaked in garlic and olive oil. The once lackluster wine list was also overhauled in 2007 to feature the best of Turkish wines, alongside international crus. But why sip vino when Bosphorus + Fish = Raki? There are more than 20 brands to choose from.
The inside dining room's grand but the broad marble terrace with its colorful landscaping beckons guests to imbibe and sup while basking in a crimson sunset over Sultanahmet and the myriad reflections bopping to the Bosphorus' ebony flow. There's also the secluded Iznik Room, where couples can do, well, just about anything in posh seclusion.
ESSENTIALS
Address: Çiragan Palace Kempinski, Çiragan Cad. 32; Besiktas Phone: 0212 259 03 94 Web: www.kempinski-istanbul.com Reservations: diningreservations.ciragan@kempinski-istanbul.comBu mail adresi spam botlara karsi korumalidir, görebilmek için Javascript açik olmalidir Hours of operation: 7 a.m. - 11 p.m. daily. Breakfast buffet (7 - 11 am), Lunch (noon -3 pm), and dinner (7 - 11 pm, except Sundays).
STRICTLY SPEAKING
ENTREE = ANA YEMEK (Pron. anayiehmehk)
The verdict is in and the new in place to overnight while in Istanbul is MiSafir Suites.
Why?
It's just a block off hip, hectic Istiklal Avenue, in the heart of Beyoglu. This is historical Pera, where Agatha Christie dined and Ernest Hewingway wined. But from its architectural past Beyoglu's a thriving hub of chic thats' emerging to hold its own with the best of European capitals. And locales like MiSafir Suites, as well as voguish restaurants, bars and nightclubs, all add up to just why Istiklal Avenue's the new -- well, renewed -- cat's meow.
On first inspection I thought it expensive at 240 euros per night. But the seven rooms, at 50 to 70 square meters (that's huge!), are tastefully decorated with a collection of art Dutch owner Joost Rooijmans's amassed from local artists. Plus there's a copious breakfast -- complimentary, of course! -- served in room. That's novel. The beds are king-sized, dressed with down duvets and pillows -- an extra comfort only found at hotels costing twice as much. The slew of gadgets -- LCD TVs, DVD and CD players, as well as free WiFi -- will make techies go gaga and those who have to put in a couple of hours of work while they play toil in utter luxury. The ample and posh marble bathrooms -- with bathrobes and slippers, as well as a basket of luscious l'Occitane bath products -- are just the cherry on top of the colloquial sundae. And did I mention free airport pick up. This alone saves at least 40 liras taxiing into Beyoglu from the airportt on a day when traffic's particularly brutal!
Interestingly enough, MiSafir's extremely peaceful despite the surrounding hubbub. The windows are triple-glazed, I'm told, to keep out the din of the pedestrian thoroughfare below. But if you do opt for a livelier scene, you'll find it in the cosmopolitan restaurants and tantalizing terrace bar scene just nearby. And sightseers will rejoice in Beyoglu's historical churches, name-brand shopping galore, and the quarter's proximity -- about a half-hour commute down artisan-filled backstreets and along the Golden Horn -- to historical Sultanahmet.
MiSafir's 8 Istanbul, which opened in early 2008, continues to be hailed as one of the Istanbul's in night draw. It's a casual bistro, adorned in a British colonial theme. Its affordable menu mixes "world cuisine with a Thai twist". Turkish dishes with zesty Thai additions. DJs answer the call by spinning lounge-y soundtrack thats attracted a cool local crowd by word-of-mouth alone. Oh, and 8's menu doubles as MiSafir's room-service carte.
ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS: Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoglu - Istanbul
TELEPHONE: +90 212 249 89 30
EMAIL: info@misafirsuites.com
STRICTLY SPEAKING
MISAFIR = GUEST (Pron. Meesafeer)
Ensconced between two seas and soaring high atop the Bosphurus, Istanbul's heights has become a muse for its top restaurateurs.
Case in point: Celebrity chef and resturateur extraordinaire Mehmet Gürs's swanky Nu Teras. The locale boasts an easygoing air with a Sandinavian minimalist decor that highlights a Middle Eastern inspired menu, and of course a prime view atop the Golden Horn.
Way up in the increasingly posh Tepebasi neighborhood -- or Pera during la Belle Epoque, Nu Teras continues to vow its artsy, high brow clientele in eighth year of operation. It's dressed in a purely Scandinavian décor that liberates the eye from its form to allow the view of sunkist of mosques and the glittering waters below to shine.
Here's what to expect in this two-in-one -- restaurant and night club -- spot. The menu mixes salads, pasta, pizza and a slew of desserts. It diverges, however, with a spin on the typical meze platter, which is labeled small food. They're appetizingly prized -- and really minute, so you're actually encouraged to delight in several. There's a perfect baker's dozen offering of mains that, interestingly enough, include spicy lamb and bacon (as in pork!) sausage dispatched pipping hot from its broad open kitchen. The dish is not only succulelnt but also rare to find in a city that's becoming increasingly obedient when it comes to Muslim commandments.
Nu Teras' groovy nightclub, which hits its stride at 11 p.m. nightly, is perhaps the main reason why Istanbulus flock en masse to this place come weekends. Conceptually dazzling, the raised Plexiglas platform that serves as a dance floor is bathed in blue light. It simulates a swimming pool, which when the summer heat's in full swing, goes a long way to subconsciously refresh the crowds. And if that's not enough to cool down, the terrace beckons with Istanbul's singular panorama right outside.
ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS: Mesrutiyet Caddesi 67/6, Tepebasi/Beyoglu
PHONE: +90.212.245.6039
HOURS: Restaurant: Two dinner seatings at 7 and 10:30 p.m.
Nightclub: Sun.- Thurs., 11 p.m.-4 a.m.; Fri. & Sat. midnight-4 a.m.
STRICTLY SPEAKING
TO GO OUT = ÇIKMAK (Pron. Cheekmak)
Turkey's known for many things: its Ottoman architecture, its delectable fare, its beaches, and its protracted historical legacy. But unless you're an aesthete of one of its many semi-indigenous artforms, like calligraphy or glass artistry, a trip to Istanbul -- or any Turkish city for that matter -- is bound to amaze the art neophyte.
A prime example is carpetweaving. Now it's easy to head to a place like the Istanbul Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum to view the largest and oldest collection of handwoven rugs in the world. Purchasing one at the government-run carpet showroom inside the gorgeous mid-15th century Haseki Hürrem Hamami (Roxelana's Baths) is even possible. But where can you learn about this truly indigenous artform.
Well, for one weekend, the internationally-acclaimed founders of DOBAG -- a Turkish acronym for the Natural Dye and Development Project -- will be on hand in Istanbul to discuss carpet weaving and demonstrate the natural dying techniques some of his organization's world-renown for.
Bohmer launched DOBAG in 1982 to restore, preserve and promote Anatolia's ancient folk art of hand weaving carpets. Since starting this cooperative, which collects rugs that reflect the ancestral tradition, motifs and hues used by women villagers throughout Turkey, DOBAG as the first woman's rug-weaving cooperative in the Islamic world has been responsible for some of the finest dyed wool creations today. Under the supervision the University of Marmara in Istanbul, DOBAG only grants it seal of approval for carpets that are superior in color, construction and overall design.
Dr. Bohmer, his wife Renate and Dr. Serife Atlihan will present the event on Saturday, November 29th, from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday, November 30th, 12:00 to 16:00, at the Crimean Memorial Church.
ESSENTIALS
LOCATION: Crimean Memorial Church
ADDRESS: Serdar Ekrem Sokak 82, Karakoy
PHONE: +90 212 251 56 16
STRICTLY SPEAKING
CARPET = HALI (Pron. Hahluh)
RUG = KILIM (Pron. Keeleem)