PlanetEye

There is possibly no better place that represents Palermo Soho's (Palermo Viejo) dining revolution than Bar Uriarte. It is located a couple of blocks from Plaza Serrano. This place is totally the opposite of Club Eros. Despite its name, Bar Uriate is a multi purpose business. It has a fancy long long long bar, two intimate dining spaces and lounge areas where you can lie down on the sofas and chat with friends. You can even take your meal while lounging on a sofa, or you can opt to dine on the patio garden enjoying nature's beauty. It is frequented mostly by trendy porteños. The interiors are luminous with a great view of the street. There is an industrial chic design with a polished concrete floor, complemented with interesting wooden art on the walls. Upstairs, there is an art gallery that sits in a loft, where you can kill time while waiting for a table. All of the objects are for sale. The kitchen is set in the front of the restaurant, exposed to the street, so you can watch as they cook. Needless to say, the kitchen is immaculate from so much attention from onlookers. The menu offers many creative dishes. This is one of the few places in Buenos Aires where you can get excellent saffron risotto. The entrée options are great. Cured prosciutto, pastrami, and salami; veal carpaccio with fried capers; and pizza crisped in the wood-fired-mud-oven are simply delicious. Try the ribs braised in red wine, the meat is so tender it just falls off the bone. Such basics as parrillada, pasta, and salads round out the menu for the less experimental. The wine list is extent. There is also an emphasis here on being a destination for drinks alone. The bar and lounge are particularly inviting for their 5 to 8 pm tea or their 8 to 10:30 pm happy hour. Have a great time while listening to the DJ spinning the latest hits on weekends. The loud, funky music gives a clubby feel to the place, so it may not suit everyone. It is open for lunch and dinner. Saturdays and Sundays, they have a special brunch menu.

Bar Uriarte

Uriarte 1572

4834 6004

www.baruriarte.com.ar/

Buenos Aires, like any big city, has its stories of success and also its stories of decadence, of quick development and quick oblivion, such as the astonishing recycle of Puerto Madero or the sad downfall of the once famous calle Lavalle. One of this stories of success takes place in the barrio de Palermo on a district called Las Cañitas. It was historically a slum area but is now an upmarket area of restaurants and bars next to the Campo Argentino de Polo in the extreme north of Palermo. What began with some restaurants and bars is now one of the most requested areas for the enterprising, and the most visited by porteños as well as lovers of  the good cuisine. Yesterday, there were only houses with big gardens. Today, there are plenty of modern buildings and lofts, where the day and night movement is constant. There are options for all the ages and taste. The younger crowd will be able to enjoy of the variety of pubs and discos that play great music and which are decorated with the lastest trades in fashion or with a very retro style. There are also many restaurants of elegant or casual style where you will find menus that go from classic food to ethnic and fusion dishes, all prepared by the most imaginative chefs. The area offers an alternative ride. Some of the best restaurants and clubs you'll find here are Nina Wok, Soul Cafe, Morelia, Club Zen, Campo Bravo, Lotus Neo Thai , El Estanciero  , Novecento  , Sushi Club  to name a few. During a stroll in Las Cañitas you will also find a huge number of exclusive boutiques, leather goods, health and beauty spas, wine and liquors galleries and antique stores. Las Cañitas Creativa street fair is worth checking out every Friday and Saturday evenings around 6pm. So don´t miss out.

One of my favourite places to go out at night in Buenos Aires is a little plaza in the heart of Palermo Soho (or Palermo Viejo) known as Plaza Serrano. The true name of this plaza is Plazoleta Julio Cortázar, but few people call it that way. The plaza is right at the intersection of calle Serrano and calle Honduras, although calle Serrano is also named calle Borges on some maps (go figure!). This is the bohemian part of Palermo. Nobody seems to be in a hurry here and there is a permanent cheerful spirit in the area. During the day, not much goes on, but at night this plaza comes alive with young people gathering to be with friends, drink, celebrate, sing, dance, play guitar, and just generally have a good time. The best time to go is on either Friday or Saturday nights. The entire square is packed with people of all ages, and it's easy to join and chat with any of them, and many sell funky jewellery and other art crafts while they gather together. The plaza is surrounded by numerous cafés, bars and restaurants that usually take out tables and chairs to the curb. I specially like Bar Crónicos, a little bar with a heart of rock and roll, but there are other great places such as El Taller, or Madagascar, or República de Aca, to name a few. Any lover of nightlife will undoubtedly enjoy this place. I like sitting with friends at any of the cafés around the plaza, have a cold beer and chat. On Saturday and Sunday, from 11am to 6pm, there is a very interesting fair called the Independent Design Fair, where artisans sell wooden toys, ceramics,  funky jewellery, and more. This is also a great place to buy art. The railings around the playground act as an open air gallery for Palermo artists, and organizers control the quality of art on display. The feria continues unofficially at many nearby bars, which push their tables and chairs aside to make room for clothing and accessory designers. Prices, styles, and items vary greatly. For instance, you might see a stall selling silk tops made from antique scarves next to neon anime bomber jackets. It is this stylistic variety and bazaar-like atmosphere that makes it a hot destination for trendy porteños who frequent the weekly fair. I would recommend arriving early. Other independent design fairs in the city can be found in San Telmo, Plaza Francia, and San Isidrio. Chekout this website(in Spanish) for more information about specific venues and fairs. There are some nice pics of Plaza Serrano on Buenos Aires' Most Popular Photographs at Planeteye.

Every July, Buenos Aires becomes a happening place. It is Winter Break, and the city explodes with an array of activities. Besides the important cultural and entertainment offer for everyone, there is a wide range of shows specially custom for kids and parents. The agenda contains more than one hundred options turning the entire city into a huge playground.
Buenos Aires offers plenty of open spaces where everyone can enjoy a picnic, play fútbol or ride a bike. The most common place to visit is the beautiful Bosques de Palermo, with lots of green space, artificial lakes with boats or water bikes and more. Furthermore, it's possible to rent roller skates and bicycles, have a ride on mateo (a picturesque horse drawn carriage), or visit the famous rose garden, with more than one thousand flowers. Within the same circuit, you will find the "Jardín Japones", a beautiful landscape with bridges and lagoons and amazing colourful fishes. Close by, there is the Botanical Garden, famous for its beautiful sculptures and the great number of cats. South of the city, the Reserva Ecológica allows visitors to learn how nature looked before the city was built. It is an ideal place to take a bicycle ride or a walk. All the paths go to the beach in front of the river. There are special guided tours for kids that let them discover the fauna and flora of the place.
More so, each neighbourhood has its theatre, and each theatre presents shows for kids during the holidays, although the greatest offer is found around Avenida Corrientes. There are shows to suit everyone: classic plays, adaptations of TV programs, interactive shows, musicals, puppets, circus performances and more. It is recommended to buy tickets in advance or at least reserve them by telephone. Many cultural centres have free shows, or there are those in which each spectator decides the price to pay at the end of the play.
The Zoo is also an excellent option, with more than 350 species of birds, mammals and reptiles. Among its attractions, people can visit the aquarium, which presents a show in the afternoon, or the reptile's house, or the "rainforest", where a suspension bridge lets you discover the environment of the subtropical jungle down below. The zoo provides educational programs that, through different activities, let kids become aware of ways to care for nature. Furthermore, there are workshops and shows.
Buenos Aires has two museums specially designed for kids. The "Museo Participativo de Ciencias" (a museum of science where children can be part of), there is a sign at the entrance that reads "It is forbidden not to touch". Here, kids are invited to discover the mysteries of science through games and small experiments. The Museo de los Niños, located within the Abasto shopping mall, is a children's size city. Here, kids can pretend to be policemen or nurses or dentists. There is a mini supermarket as well as a mini fast food store, among other activities. Other museums also have programs for children during holidays. El Malba provides activities, workshops and guided tours in order to get children closer to Latin American art. The Museum of Natural Science (whose main attraction is a dinosaur skeleton) also offers guided visits. Perhaps the most amazing tour for children is the underground tunnels that begin in the area known as "Manzana de las Luces". During colonial times, these tunnels ran all the way to the harbour. Kids love mystery. Going through the tunnels is completely safe.
The Planetarium Galileo Galilei, located in the Bosques de Palermo presents shows adapted to different ages with the purpose of getting kids in touch with the universe. For generations, porteños have been amazed at its dome, which can simulate a night full of stars. For those who want the direct observation to the stars, the best place is the Club de Amigos de la Astronomía at the Parque Centenario. Every Friday and Saturday, people are invited to observe the sky with a telescope, with the assistance of guides.
As you can see, there are many things to do during the Winter Break in Buenos Aires, so if you happen to be around mind as well take advantage of the opportunity...

As I mentioned on a previous article, in Buenos Aires ice cream (known as "helado") is a serious business. It doesn't matter if it is mid-July and it is freezing cold, most heladerías (ice cream parlours) are open and running, specially the big brand names. One of these franchises is ice cream parlour Freddo. I know I recommended to avoid Freddo, but time goes by and things change, some for the best. The story goes like this... Freddo started as a family business back in 1969. Its first shop was located on Avenida Callao, in the heart of Barrio Norte. It delighted porteños for many years. Unfortunately this family company was sold in the early nineties to a greedy mega group who expanded viciously without measuring the consequences. Unfortunately this also meant a notorious descent in its quality. The good news is that Freddo has recently been sold off from the corporation and it is again in family hands. Lets hope this means better days for Freddo. Still they have a long way to go, and a big market to capture back. The ice cream is good but their prices don't match the quality, especially if we compare them with its competitors, like Volta (which was opened in 2002 by the original family who started Freddo) and Persicco. But it looks they are working on it. Freddo has opened numerous shops throughout the city and has even expanded into Uruguay and Paraguay. Aside from the modern interiors and brand new flavours (like cookies and cream or crema irlandesa), they have also created Kosher as well as gluten-free and  light ice cream. More so, Freddo ice cream is served in all Aerolineas Argentinas' business class meals. Freddo offers a great variety of flavours. I tried many and I conclude that my favourites are dulce de leche granizado (with chocolate chips), mousse de chocolate, and mascarpone. So give it a try, you won't regret it. If you want it delivered right to your door just call 0810 333 73336.

While visiting Buenos Aires, you will find there is a wide variety of culinary options to choose from. Now, if you are a North American who have been travelling for some time and you are craving for a taste from back home that you haven't been able to find, then go to the Buller Brewing Company, a North American style restaurant and bar. The menu is not very extensive, but here you will find for sure exactly what you are looking for, like nachos and cheese, mozzarella sticks, onion rings, Caesar salad, hamburgers, pork chops and more. Needless to say is that since it is a brewery you can enjoy one the tastiest homemade cold beer in the city. It is a really good place to visit. The roof patio is great. Just dropping by to have a few drinks and some snacks gives you a feeling of being at home for a little while. You will find that a lot of expats living in Buenos Aires meet here, as well as some tourists. On weekend nights, there is often great live music shows. The location is very convenient, as it is located in the barrio de Recoleta, right across from the famous cemetery, next door to about 20 different bars and restaurants that line the street where the Buller is located. So lots of choices here, and it is a very safe area too. Also, the Hard Rock Cafe is just around the corner. If you go in the evening, you can see the beautiful Iglesia del Pilar illuminated at night, it is gorgeous. There is a branch just downtown. So drop by and have a cold cream pale ale...

Buller Pub and Brewery Recoleta
Presidente Roberto M. Ortiz 1827 - Recoleta
4808-9061
http://www.bullerpub.com/

Buller Pub Downtown
Paraguay 428 - Centro
4313-0287

In Buenos Aires the metro or subway is known as "subte", and as mentioned in a previous article, it is a great way of getting around the city. In fact, el subte is my favourite means of transportation. There are 5 subway lines and each of them is identify by a letter (obviously these are A, B, C, D, and E). But, if you come to Buenos Aires, you have no excuses for not taking the oldest subway line in the country. This is the linea A. The "A" line was the first one to open and it was built back in 1913. Its first station was inaugurated on December 1st 1913, making it the oldest metro system in South America, the Southern Hemisphere, and the entire Spanish-speaking world. There are some original wagons still running from those days. It is like being in 1913 when you get into one of those. More so, it feels like you have slipped into an Indiana Jones movie! They are very cosy, with wooden seats, old style electric lamps and mirrors. The doors open manually. But be warned, they have a habit of breaking down sometimes. But hey, it is not like you have to go anywhere, right? It is just a ride. Occasionally they will use modern trains on that line. If you see a modern gray train, just wait for the next train. The A line goes from Plaza de Mayo to Primera Junta. The ideal route to have the change to travel on it is from Plaza de Mayo to Congreso Station, a short ride but well worth it. You have to pay $ 0.90 for one trip (about usd 0.30). You don't have to pay again if you change to another line. You will only have to pay again if you left the station.

http://www.urbanrail.net/am/buen/buenos-aires.htm