PlanetEye

Local Expert: Abha Malpani

I'm an Indian girl living, loving and lost in Madrid -- I've been here over a year now. Here I write and rant for a handful of travel-blogs, and teach English to pay my rent. When I'm not trying to work, I'm normally at a bar eating tapas and...

 

Latest posts from our Madrid expert:

May 14, 2008
Food

Mesón El Gañán:authentic, SUPER cheap Spanish food

This place is one of my favourite places to eat in Madrid. Hmmm...well, I only really write about my favourite places, and yes I know they are many! :) This one I like because it is ridiculously cheap and the food is as good as if your mum made it at home.

They have specially named sandwiches such as : El Gañán and El Señorito being the 2 main specialities of the house; they are essentially a piece of freshly cooked meat with a vegetable (mainly onion or green/red pepper). They are just the right size and cost a meagre €1.50 each. Yes, €1.50 -- that wasn't a typo!

All other food is mainly tapas that are well made and cheap too, but alongside their sandwiches, what's also famous are their meat skewers called El Timón -- a large stick of a variety of well marinated meat.

The bar is run by old men who don't speak anything but Spanish, and the place is anything but posh or "happening", but you go there to eat. Service is super quick at the bar, so if you are a small group stay there. For bigger groups, there is a small dining area at the back where they have fit 15 tables instead of 10 and the service is slow -- but Spain was never known for its service so it's all good! You won't find tourists here, and if you see some -- they are most likely to be expats who have lived in the city for a while and know where to go to get the good, cheap stuff ;-)

Location: Calle de Veneras, 7 

Closest Metro: Opera (green line) 

May 14, 2008
Attraction

Egypt's sunken treasures displayed in Madrid

Ok, I know that if you're visiting Madrid, seeing things from other countries is probably not on your agenda, however if you are here for a while and have some extra time, this one exhibition is worth visiting, even though it's Egyptian, and even though it's temporary.

For the last 12-years, under the supervision and guidance of marine archaeologist Franck Goddio, a team of people have been discovering Egyptian treasures from as long ago as the 7th century BC, lost and submerged in the sea. They have managed to recover a large amount of these objects: monumental statues, coins, jewellery and cult objects, and even entire sections of cities; 500 of them have been displayed in Madrid's Matadero (former slaughter house which is now a cultural centre) in Legazpi.

The artefacts are over a 1000 years old, spanning from the days of the last pharaohs to Alexander the Great, the period of Greek rule to the Roman conquest, then to the Byzantine times until the beginning of  the age of Islam.

The exhibition runs until September 28 and costs €11 for normal tickets and €9 for students.

Place: Matadero de Legazpi, Paseo de la Chopera 10/12 (closest metro: Legazpi, yellow and grey line)

Timings: Monday-Friday, 10:00-14:00; 16:00-18:00

 

 

 

May 10, 2008
Local News

Bullfighting season Madrid - Fiesta de San Isidro!

This week, until the end of the month, Madrid celebrates the Fiesta of San Isidro with the main day of celebration being May 15 -- which is a public holiday in the city.

Should you have the urge to watch bullfights this is the best time to do so. I personally find it barbaric and have only watched it on television (I wanted to vomit), but throughout May, Madrid holds bullfights with some of the best matadors in the bull ring of "Las Ventas". Fights can cost anything from 10-100, depending on when you go and who you go to watch.

Otherwise during San Isidro, from May 11-18 Madrilenos dress as as chulos, chulapas, and goyescas and parade the streets. People set up stalls of food, drink and music -- and everyone's just merry.

San Isidro was a good man and hard worker, who found "miracle" water when he was digging, ever since he has been named the patron saint of Madrid. On May 15, you can go to the Park of San Isidro and drink this miracle water from the fountain. Other key areas to be at this time are: Plaza Mayor and Jardines de las Vistillas, where alongside open air concerts, you will find people traditionally dressed dancing the chotis -- a slow polka-waltz type trot. All in all, a good time to experience traditional Madrid!

 

 

May 08, 2008
Insider's List

Madrid's Best Barrios

City areas in Spain are divided into "barrios" i.e. neighbourhoods. Compared to other cities, Madrid does not have that many "historical" things to see, but a lot of the city's flavour and local culture can be found in its various barrios. Each barrio is distinct with its own ambiance and crowd -- these are my favourite ones:

1) Malasaña: Located close to Plaza España, this barrio is probably the coolest one for youngsters to hang in. The streets are narrow and the houses have colourful, enviable balconies. Each street has a row of little bars and restaurants, from local "old man" ones to trendy hipster ones, to ones for "guiris" (us foreigners). Many venues here play jazz/rock concerts.Overall, the vibe here is alternative and cool, awesome to head out in for a night of tapas and cañas!

Closest Metro: Noviciado (red line) / Tribunal (dark blue line)

2) Lavapies: This is THE immigrant barrio of Madrid, and my favourite. It used to be the old Jewish quarter and today it's the home of most Bangladeshis, Moroccans, and Africans. It's probably one of the cheapest barrios to eat and drink at, and also to live. The vibe is quite hard core hippy. You will find many a dreadlocks, flip flops and ripped pyjama wearing people all around -- they are mostly budding musicians and actors who are trying to make it happen for them. Because the barrio is cheap and home to immigrants, unfortunatley it has many drug addicts and alcoholics roaming around -- something you will notice as soon as you get there. But not to worry, stay out of their way and they are harmless, and there are always many police in the area.

Closest metro: Lavapies (yellow line) 

3) Anton Martin: Another very cool barrio, I would call it a mix of barrios Malasaña and Lavapies. Small winding streets, very trendy yet laid back little bars. This barrio is a maze, but really cool.

Closest metro: Anton Martin (blue line) 

4) Huertas: Bang in the centre of the city, this is THE party barrio. Full of discos and clubs, it's where you'll always find a hoard of people heading out to paint the town red. The area must have atleast a 100 bars and clubs, all clustered in one area -- so it's a great place to hit if you want a big night out drinking, dancing and being silly. Many hostels are located here, and you will see many guiris, but it's your best bet for a night out.

Closest Metro: Sol (yellow/blue line) 

A walk around these barrios is a must in Madrid! 

 

   [This list is empty]

May 06, 2008
Food

Get those steaks, Argentinean and cheap!

Just like burgers, if you're a meat-eater you also crave that perfect slab of meat. If you get that urge to devour a bloody steak and prefer to stay away from the Irish Rover, boy have I found the place for you!

Located on a little street called Calle Pez, 30 in barrio Malasaña sits a little, homely Argentinean restaurant called "The Sitting Bull" that is open all day, serves the best steaks, and is totally affordable -- any steak dish varies from €9-14, with fries -- not bad at all!

The portions are large, the atmosphere is comfortable, and the place is normally filled with large Argentinean families. It's always busy, but they try their best to accomodate you even if you don't have a reservation -- even on a weekend, so it's a great bet!

Being a typically Argentinean local, it's a great place to get some pizza (€5.50 per pizza!) and watch the football -- it has a huge plasma screen! So there you go: steak, pizza, football, cheap, Hispanic -- it really doesn't get any better!

Closet metro: Noviciado (red line) 

May 02, 2008
Local News

National Holiday: May 2 in Madrid

Today Madrid celebrates this day back in 1808 when the Spanish people rebelled against the French occupation. Spain was occupied by the French under Napolean Bonaparte, who began his conquest of Europe in 1807 by occupying Portugal. 

When Bonaparte came to Spain, King Charles IV was forced to abdicate his throne to his son Fernando VII, and both of them were sent to Bayonne in France. The rebellion in Madrid was triggered when the French tried to move King Charle's children to France too.

The uprising began infront of the Royal Palace, and spread to the barrios of Sol and Malasaña -- in Malasaña there is even a plaza called "Dos de Mayo" (2nd of May) that marks a key area of bloodshed. Thus began the Spanish war for independence.

The insurgency was supressed brutally and quickly, but marked the beginning of many larger scale rebellions to come. Most people were killed and most of those who survived the battle were executed the next day.

The leaders of this rebellion were Luis Daoíz y Torre, Jacinto Ruiz y Mendoza and Manuela Malasaña -- statues of these local heroes can be seen in various points in barrio Malasaña.

Today is a national holiday and to celebrate the bicentennial of this important day in Spanish history in Madrid, there are multiple events around the city.

Artist Goya's paintings of this uprising are paraded around town, there will be a theatrical show enacting the occurings of May 2 1808 in Plaza de Cibeles, bands will be playing in barrio Malasaña, and fireworks/festivities will also be seen infront of the Royal Palace. So these are the spots worth going to if you want to be a part of the celebrations.

However, last year there were riots in Malasaña, not uncommon when so many people get together in an event that has political significance. So, although security is on high alert mode, be careful and attentive to what's happening wherever you go!

April 29, 2008
Attraction

Cheap but excellent Flamenco dancing in Madrid

Yes, it's true: you don't have to spend a bomb to see good Flamenco in Madrid. Although you can, and other than a little hole in your pocket, you won't be disappointed. But, if you are not fussed about visiting the Flamenco bar where Che Guevara and Ronald Regan hung out (where the show would be €40 with only glass of wine!), and prefer a low key, inexpensive, yet authentic Flamenco experience, these are the three best places to go in the city:

El Juglar: By far my personal favourite, this bar is in the immigrant Lavapies barrio on Calle Lavapies 37. Shows are about an hour long (no breaks!) with 4-5 dancers and a 3 piece Flamenco band (singer/guitar/percussion).They say shows start at 10pm, but they won't start until 11 (that's Spanish standard time for you!).They perform in a little hall behind the bar, on a stage, so you feel like you are at a theatre. Of the dance group, there are always 1-2 amateur dancers but they are pretty good. They all dance individually and then do a group session. Flamenco shows are only on Sundays and cost €9 -- that includes a drink.

Cardamomo: Located in barrio Huertas on Calle Echegaray 15, this place has a great ambiance more than anything: dim lights, red and black decor, candles, Flamenco music playing in the background, traditionally dressed darked haired/red lipstick Spanish women and Spanish men with the waistcoat and ponytail. It makes you feel like you've entered a warm and comfortable Spanish locale. Here they have 2-3 dancers along with the band. I personally found the dancers at El Juglar far superior, but the ones here are not bad either. The only annoying thing about this place is that the shows have long intermissions: they dance for 15-minutes, then there is a 30-minute break until the next dancer dances. Entrance is €5, including a drink and the show. Show starts around 11pm and is on every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.

Clan: On Calle Ribera de Curtidores 30 in barrio Embajadores (close to Lavapies, right where I live! :), Clan is a nice restaurant/hangout/club/performance place. They have free Flamenco shows every Friday and Saturday 00:30 onwards! The shows here are good and the crowd is always bustling.

Happy Flamenco! Ole! :)

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