Latest posts from our Rio de Janeiro expert:
Paulista Invasion!
Historically, Rio de Janeiro's culinary scene has been considered something of a poor relation to that of sophisticated São Paulo. A semi-friendly rivalry has long existed between the two cities, and Paulistas (as residents of Brazil's teeming metropolis are known), have long looked down their noses at the dining options available in Rio.
Things are starting to change, however, and the scope and quality of food available in Rio is being held in increasingly high regard.
Ironically, much of the new wave of culinary influence has come from São Paulo itself, with many succesful restaurants from the 'big smoke' opening sister branches here in Rio.
This 'Invasão Paulista' began in earnest in 2001, with the opening of the restaurant Carlota, whose São Paulo branch had won a string of accolades for its contemporary menu. The restaurant was welcomed with open arms by cariocas (Rio locals), who appreciated the considerable skills of chef Carla Pernambuco. Encouraged by the success of Carlota, other chefs and owners began to consider their Rio options, and today much of the dining scene here has a Paulista accent. Notable recent openings include Japanese restaurant Nakombi (where, bizarrely, sushi is prepared in a combi van which sits in the middle of the restaurant...), Italian restaurant Gero, and a branch of the Italian restaurant Fasano - considered a real Paulista icon in terms of style and quality. Last year, Fasano increased its presence in Rio with the opening of the Fasano Rio hotel, and the luxury hotel restaurant Fasano Al Mare. The restaurant, which specialises in seafood, won awards within just a couple of months of opening. Fasano is open to non-guests, but reservations are always necessary, and prices are among the highest in Rio.
Beco do Rato
The bar's name - 'Rat Alley' in Portuguese - is less than glamorous, but Beco do Rato is one of the best spots in Rio to hear live samba music.Located on a sidestreet in the heart of Lapa, the bar is one of the few places in the city that doesn't impose an 'artistic cover' charge, and consequently is absolutely packed with locals at weekends.
The vibe here is relaxed and casual, and you'll find everybody from university students to ageing hippies drinking, eating and dancing here.
On the wall is a huge mural depicting famous samba artists aboard the legendary Santa Teresa tram, and the venue has been known to attract some big names from the Brazilian music scene.
Beco do Rato is open Thursday - Saturday from 8pm to 2am, and it's worth arriving early to grab a table and order a snack before the crowds arrive (the portion of pasties with chicken is a good bet).
Things start to get lively after around 11am, and after midnight you'll have to fight for space on the dancefloor - the house band here is exceptionally good, and plays a crowd-pleasing set of covers, including numbers originally recorded by the likes of Jorge Ben and Os Mutantes.
Beco do Rato is located at Rua Joaquim Silva 11, Centro. It's best to take a taxi here if you're unfamiliar with the area, as it's not the best place to be wandering around looking lost. Credit and debit cards are accepted here, so there's no need to be carrying a lot of cash.
Hotel Marina All Suites
For a luxury hotel with a difference, look no further than Hotel Marina All Suites, in upmarket Leblon. The hotel sits directly in front of the beach, and is comprised of just 37 suites in a lofty high rise building. While suites on the lower floors are smart but relatively basic, those on the upper levels have each been signed by a different designer, and offer every luxury imaginable - from plunge pools to powerful stereo systems.
The hotel's location close to Leblon's chic bars, boutiques and restaurants have made it a firm favourite with Brazilian and international celebrities who want to avoid the prying eyes of the paparazzi (those who want to sleep between the same sheets as a supermodel may be interested to know that Gisele's favourite suite is the Diamante...).
As well as a rooftop pool with fantastic ocean views, the top floor of the building boasts one of Rio's most fashionable bars, Bar D'Hotel, where the city's 'gente bonita' (beautiful people), gather to eat, drink, and pose.
The bar is open to non-guests, and cocktails here are pricey but very good - if your budget will only stretch to one drink here, try the Royal - vodka, Cointreau, lime and ginger (R$14); or the Caipirubi - vodka with mixed red berries (R$16). The menu has a strong emphasis on finger food; from mini hamburgers made with lamb and foie gras, to mini bruschettas topped with everything from sundried tomato and buffallo mozzeralla to shiitake mushroom.
Prices for the suites range from around R$370 to R$800, and vary dramatically in terms of style - it's worth browsing the hotel's website (www.marinaallsuites.com.br) to choose the suite that most appeals.
Service at the hotel is impeccable, and there are numerous quirky touches such as a bar/living room for entertaining guests, and a state-of-the art home cinema. Both can be pre-booked, and reception staff will arrange for requested films to be picked up, free of charge, from nearby rental stores.
Feira Rio Antigo
Browsing for antiques may not sound like the most exciting way to spend a Saturday afternoon, but this is Rio, and things are done differently here. On the first Saturday of every month, Rua Lavradio, in Centro, is transformed into a giant outdoor antiques market, where bargain hunters peruse the hundreds of stalls to the sound of live samba and choro. A DJ blasts out tunes from every genre of Brazilian music, and locals of all ages gather to browse, chat, and dance. You don't have to be an antiques enthusiast to find something of interest here - vintage clothing, handmade accessories, and cool little arty trinkets are all available. Look out for the stall selling perfect replica favela houses made from painted cardboard, at just R$10 per piece. The street is lined with pavement cafes selling high quality Brazilian food, and street vendors roam the pavements peddling everything from corn on the cob to Bahian fish stews. Although Centro is generally not the safest of areas at weekends, the market is well-policed, so you should feel free to take your camera. Just be careful to keep it hidden during the bus ride there and back!
Feira Nordestina, São Cristóvão
Most visitors to Rio shun the city's North Zone in favour of the much more picturesque Zona Sul, but the sprawling area has more to offer than just breezeblock favela and industrial estates. While much of the north is as unlovely as the south zone is beautiful, it's possible to find some excellent off-the-beaten-track attractions here - from the city zoo to the wonderfully quirky Feira do Nordestino.
The latter is a celebration of all things from Brazil's North East, held in a purpose-built, government-sponsored arena in the São Cristóvão neighbourhood.
Inside are more than 700 permanent stalls and stands, each selling products from the North East - you'll find everything from chilli peppers to leather cowboy hats here.
The arena opens non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday evening, and for a nominal entrance fee of just R$1, you can browse the stalls, eat at one of the many hundreds of restaurants, grab a drink or listen to live music.
On Saturday afternoons many relocted Nordestinos (natives from the North East of Brazil) flock here to strut their stuff on the dancefloor to the sounds of forro music. Despite the advanced age of many of the dancers, there are some pretty impressive shapes being thrown here!
The neighbourhood itself is not one of Rio's safest, so make sure you know where you're going, but the arena itself is secure and well-policed.
To get here, take a Metro to São Cristóvão and then grab a cab, or take a São Cristóvão bus from Centro and check with the driver that the route will pass the Feira Nordestino.
New Natural
Although vegetarians in Rio can have a pretty tough time of it, if you know where to look there are actually quite a few spots to enjoy a tasty meat-free meal.One such place is New Natural, in Ipanema. Situated right next door to 'Hostel Alley' - the strip of backpacker havens on Rua Barao da Torre, this restaurant and snack bar is open for lunch, breakfast and dinner.
Although it's not exclusively vegetarian - you'll find some chicken and fish dishes too - there are plenty of soya dishes, vegetable soups, salads, quiches and numerous other treats for food-deprived veggies.
The main restaurant serves food 'por kilo' - you load your plate up with any items you fancy, the plate is weighed, and you pay accordingly. Tip - por kilo places in Ipanema, New Natural included, are pretty pricey. If you're watching the pennies, head here for a light lunch rather than huge meal or you could end up blowing your budget!
Food from the main restaurant can be eaten in or taken away, and there's also a stand up snack bar and health-food store attached. Here you can pick up absolutely delicious wholemeal pasteis (pastries), oven-baked and filled with a choice of delicious, wholesome ingredients. My favourite is the palmito (palm-heart) with catupiry cheese - personally I think this has to be the best pastel in the whole of Rio.
Cidade do Samba - Samba City
Rio Carnival 2008 may have been and gone, but those who missed out on this year's festivities can enjoy a taste of the carnival spirit at Cidade do Samba (Samba City), in Rio's docklands.
Here visitors can hear live samba music, watch carnival rehearsals and see the elaborate costumes and displays being put together - Rio's carnival parades are the stuff of legend, and putting the shows together is no easy task, with rehearsals and preparations for the next year beginning almost as soon as carnival is over.
A trip to Samba City costs R$20 (about US$10), which includes a guided tour in either English or Portuguese. Those who are itching to strut their own funky stuff can take part in samba dancing classes.
Samba City is open from 9am to 5pm every day except Sundays and Mondays, when it's closed all day. Several times a year, the doors of Samba City open late for a very special carnival celebration. For R$150, you can witness a 'mini-carnival', complete with pagode music show, buffet, full carnival parades and even a fireworks display at the end of the night. Dates for this year's events have been announced as 11 and 25th of October, 8th and 22nd of November, 6th and 20th of December, and 10th and 24th of January.
Cidade de Samba can be reached by public transport, but it's easiest to take a taxi as the surrounding area is a little unsafe. The address is Rua Rivadavia Correa 60, Suburb Gamboa, Portuaria do Rio Zone. For reservations or more info, call (+55) 21 2213 2503