PlanetEye

This weekend was the weekend that hosted the 81st Annual Alpini Festival in Bassano del Grappa in the northern region of the Veneto.

The "Alpini", directly translated meaning "The Alpines", were and still are an elite mountain fighting group of the Italian army. The Alpini were initially created in 1872 with the sole purpose of protecting Italy's northern border in the Alpine Mountains. 

Through the years, the Alpini have slowly been disbanded as the need for them has slowly been diminished with modern military needs. However, every year, the veterans as well as currently enlisted members gather in an Italian city or town and host a weekend long celebration, complete with food, music, and A LOT of wine. This whole celebration is a bit strange. When I was speaking to some vets that seemed to be about the same age as my grandfather, they were quite eager to talk about the fact that they could be called into action at any moment and prefer to think of themselves as "in reserve" rather than "retired".

This year, I would estimate that the members arriving from all over Italy numbered in the thousands, if not ten-thousand. They brought with them to the tiny city of Bassano cheese, salami, wine, and sprits from their respective area from which they are from. The public also turns out in full force for this celebration. Don't expect to get a hotel...there won't be any to be found. My suggestion is to rent a trailer or camper and sleep in that. Some friends of mine found refuge in the back of a pick-up and spent the weekend sleeping in sleeping bags.

All in all, it's an experience and a relatively good time. It's almost like Oktoberfest, but on a smaller, 3 day scale. If this type of thing isn't for you, then definitely do some research as to where the next one will be. Each year the city changes and for 3 days, the city shuts down while the Alpini are in town. It's an experience, and in my opinion a good one. Just make sure to dress accordingly for the cool, mountain nights. 

Today hosted the 34th annual Vogalonga "Long Oar" through the islands of Venice. This event grew out of a peaceful protest in 1974 for the historical tradition of oared boats in Venice rather than motorized ones due to the fact that the motorized boats became dangerous for the canal and for the preservation of the city itself. Since then this tradition has returned, inviting both amateurs and professional rowers in a friendly, non-competitive race from the lagoon in front of Piazza San Marco through the islands of Venice and finally back up the Grand Canal.

The race starts in the Basin near Piazza San Marco in front of Palazzo Ducale. All of the rowers start by singing praises to San Marco before the start of the race at 9am. From there it rounds the island of Venice and heads down the main canals of Burano, Murano, and some of the other islands that make up the outlying "'suburbs" of Venice. 

When it initially started there was diminishing interest in rowing a boat in Venice as much of the world was turning to the new Motorized versions. Now, after 34 years, rowing in Venice is a huge past time and has spawned hundreds of rowing clubs in the area that have their own rowing teams made up of 2, 10,12, even 20 rowers! It also attracts teams from all over the globe. Today I saw teams from Hungary, Great Britain, and even a Polynesian team. But not to be outdone there were also individuals, all women, and a group of Monks. For those of you who like to simply Kayak or take the old camp canoe out for a spin every once in a while...you're welcome to participate as well.

The rules for the regata are surprisingly simple. First, you have to have a boat that is powered by oars (gondola, kayak, canoe, hollowed out log), then you have to have at least one rower, and then you have to pay the entry fee...this year it was 15 Euro.

If you happen to be in Venice during the spring, I highly recommend stopping by the canal for this peaceful, colorful regata. In my opinion, the best place to watch is definitely along Canal Cannaregio. This canal was listed as the best place on several websites that I checked out, and after experiencing it...I completely agree. There are numerous cafes and plenty of room on either side due to the large, wide walkways. I was able to find a place and enjoyed a cappuccino in the morning while the first boats drifted by and later a spritz and a sandwich as the larger groups entered the Grand Canal. The Grand Canal offers limited viewing and is usually overcrowded with spectators and it makes the whole day less enjoyable.

If you are interested in participating or just curious to learn more. Click here for the official website. 

Wondering around in Padova for an afternoon is easy to do. The streets offer a lingering stroll through a city that has retained much of its "Authentic Italian" feel despite the proximity to Venice, which is a huge tourist draw, and Vicenza, which is the location for the US Army base. The streets offer a unique look at this mid-evil town and have a lot of hidden jewels that are tucked away down the countless side streets in the Ghetto (old Jewish neighborhood) and around Il Duomo.

While wondering around searching for a place to grab a pizza for dinner, I stumbled across Pizzeria Medina on via Barbarigo. This quaint little pizzeria is truly amazing and offers countless pages of different types of pizza. Although there aren't many tables, 15 or less, it can cater to large parties of 6 or 7 or intimate 1 on 1 seating arrangements. The kitchen is open and easily viewed from the entire restaurant and I found it interesting to watch as the Mara, the man preparing the pizzas, tossed the dough into the air and then stretched it on the edge of the counter without it breaking. The oven is wood burning which makes for the perfect pizza crust so I'm told. The owner is Dominico and is always present, sometimes preparing a pizza himself or pouring beers at the bar. His wife, Mara, is the head waitress and will put anything on a pizza that you ask for or have a question about. 

The pizza was amazing! I had a diavola with salsiccia and cipolle (spicy peperoni with Italian sausage and onions) and a large beer (which turned out to be 1 liter). The price was really affordable, less than 20 Euro for pizza, beer, and limoncello as a dessert. For my money, this is the best pizza in Padova and as far as a digestivo of Limoncello, it was smooth and didn't burn like some of the cheaper brands.

I suggest calling for a reservation on Friday and Saturday night if you are going to be there later than 7:30pm. If Sunday was any indication, you'll need it because the place fills up fast and people were waiting on the street. To see photos click here and then click on the Photo gallery link.

Address:

Via S. Barbarigo, 18
35100 - Centro Storico (PD)

Telephone: +39 049 654-597
 

After the marathon had finished, or at least until I saw my friend Giacomo finish in a triumphant celebration as he passed my viewing point on via Roma, I decided to enjoy some of the beautiful day and explore Padova more thoroughly. I wandered back towards the main center of town and found myself standing in front of a Caffè Pedrocchi.

Caffè Pedrocchi is in the heart of Padova, near Piazza Bo and the University. The ground floor is divided into three different rooms, a green room, a white room, and a red room...all signifying the colors of the Italian national flag. It was built between 1826 and 1831 in pure neo-classic style. It is from this that, in 1938, next to the South entrance "The Pedrocchino" was built in strict neo-gothic taste in order to house the confectioners shop for making all of their own pastries. On the upper floor there are magnificent rooms, each one furnished with a different theme. There is the Herculaneuan Room, the Greek Room, Renaissance Room, and my personal favorite the Egyptian Room. There is also a great ballroom dedicated to Rossini, who was a friend of architect, Jappelli.The caffè immediately became the hub of city life. It was frequented by professors and students from the University that was nearby in Piazza Bo and was the hub of the Resorgimental uprisings in 1848.  

The interior is classy. The center white room is where you will find the bar and there are tables surrounding the open air space. The drinks are a little expensive but well worth the indulgence. In the evenings it becomes more of a wine bar for the upscale patrons of Padova, but students are also welcome and not turned away. They employ a DJ that usually has a mix of house, reggae, jazz, and fusion playing in the background. The drinks are served with a wide variety of things to nibble on at the bar.

If the weather is nice, it becomes the caffè without doors and is completely open-aired. There are also some tables seated outside on the patio area between the entrances with the Lions. At any rate, this is a quick stop that must not be over-looked when you are visiting Padova. It's great any time of day.

The race itself is growing year after year and is quite possibly the Italian runner’s version of the Boston Marathon or New York Marathon. The Marathon is open to everybody and provides for a relaxing day in a beautiful Italian city with fantastic weather and a nice bottle of wine along the marathon route. Remember I'm not a runner, so my job as a spectator is to support those that I know in the race. This year it's my friend Giacomo. 

The start of the race is schedule for 8:45am; however a slight variant might occur due to live televised coverage of the event. The starting time for the disabled athletes is scheduled for 8:30am. 

Complete race information can be found HERE.

April 25th, the day that Italy was liberated from the Fascist regime. Today is a national holiday...and rightly so. Venice, as well as Mestre (the mainland Venice), has scheduled a long list of activities and festivities to celebrate, much like every other city in the nation. This day (for Venice) begins at 8:45am with a number of flag raisings throughout the city with numerous city and military officials present. Everything culminates at 8pm in Piazza San Marco with numerous dignitaries present for the lowering of the flag and military honors.

April 25th is also a Saint Mark's Day, the patron saint of Venice. In centuries past, The Feast of Saint Mark was the reason for a procession that took place in the Piazza that had religious authorities as well as civil dignitaries which also included a large number of artists. Basically, just about anybody who was anybody took part in it.  Today, everything starts in Piazza San Marco at roughly 9am and things continue all day with food and concerts, two regattas, and a special tradition for the men of Venice.

The procession inside the Basilica with a Holy Mass begins at 10:30am. Later in the day there are two regattas. The first is at 9am from the Bienale Gardens, and the second is as 9:20am from Punto della Dogana. Throughout the day, there are massive BBQ's in Piazza San Marco that serve sausages, ribs, polenta, and chicken as well as serving wine and beer. 

This day also holds a tradition for Venetian men. On this day it is a widespread tradition for the men of Venice to give a "bocolo", a red rosebud, to the woman that he loves most. Whoever said that Liberation and Love didn't go hand in hand has obviously never been to Venice on April 25th.

Before moving to Italy, I knew that Espresso and Cappuccino were both types of Italian coffee. In fact, that coupled with my watered down American coffee that I drank every morning, just about covered my knowledge of the beverage and allowed me to order something with confidence when I was in an airport or train station traveling somewhere. This, as they say, is only the tip of the iceberg.

Since moving here, I have discovered that there are just as many types of coffee and ways of serving it as there are types of pasta and the different sauces that can go with it. The little peninsula of Italy has made the cup of coffee (or caffè) a work of art. This can sometimes be a little overwhelming for a visitor who wants to experience true Italian coffee without looking like a tourist....so, here is some handy information for you to consider.

1. Never order a cappuccino after 10am...no matter where you are or what you're doing. You will instantly be pegged as a tourist and you'll probably pay more because of it.

2. If you plan on ordering a caffè, please remember that you are not expected to linger. The Italians drink their coffee extremely fast and it is not a leisure drink like we Americans tend to think of it as.

3. A caffè "to go" is extremely hard to find. Most places don't even provide the option. I've found it in Florence at one cafe, but never in Venice.

4. If you order at the bar and stand, you'll pay less than if you sit down. This is also true for sandwich places and small establishments that serve "fast food". You will be charged for the "privilege" of sitting at the table and service is added to the final bill.

Here is a list of the most common types of coffee:

• caffè (espresso)—a small cup of very strong coffee, i.e., espresso
• caffè Americano—American-style coffee, but stronger; weaker than espresso and served in a large cup
• caffè corretto—an espresso "corrected" with a shot of grappa, cognac, or other spirit
• caffè doppio—double espresso
• caffè freddo—iced coffee
• caffè Hag—decaffeinated coffee
• caffè latte—hot milk mixed with coffee and served in a glass for breakfast
• caffè macchiato—espresso "stained" with a drop of steamed milk: small version of a cappuccino
• caffè marocchino—espresso with a dash of hot milk and cacao powder
• caffè ristretto—espresso with less water; you might need a knife and fork to cut it, it's so thick and REMEMBER TO BLINK!
• cappuccino—espresso infused with steamed milk and drunk in the morning, but never after lunch or dinner
• granita di caffè con panna—frozen, iced beverage (similar to a slush, but ice shavings make it authentic) and topped with whipped cream

Here is a list of the top 4 and when they are acceptable.

Caffe Correcto: Usually only in the morning, before 10am but can also be as a "digestivo" after dinner in place of a limoncello, whisky, or grappa etc...

Cappuccino: Only in the morning, before 10am. 

Caffe Macchiato: Usually ok up to the middle of the afternoon, order this if it is too late for a Cappuccino.

If you're an avid coffee drinker, try them in this order to fit in with the locals and have unending energy throughout the day.