Latest posts from our Istanbul expert:
NEW COUNTERFEIT SCAM
Passing off counterfeits is one of the oldest games in the book. What deserves notice (or a chuckle if it's not happening to you) though is the method in which ruthless characters maneuver the exchange of real currency for bum ones.
While the practice is universal, Istanbul seems to be a magnet for shady characters of all kinds. So buyer, traveler, or whomever beware!
The latest tricks of the trade prey on unsuspecting individuals, but primarily taxi passengers, who pay for goods or services--such as a cab ride-- with big bills.
Here's the scenario: the ride hands over, say, a 50-lira note to the cabbie, who after looking for change out of a thick wad of bills he just produced claims he can't make change. He hands it back. The regular Joe's just been fooled by a sleight of hand as the driver quickly slipped the one he's been given and traded it for a dupe.
Most won't even notice they've been fooled until a bank teller or retailer down the line won't accept the fake bill.
So.... The moral of the story is: Try carrying 20-lira notes or smaller. And, by all means, don't think this only involves cabbies.
STRICTLY SPEAKING: CRIME--GÜNAH (pron. as it's read)
TRUMP'ED
The countdown to 2010, the year istanbul becomes the European Capital of Culture, has hit a fevering pitch. With more announcements to keep the press on their toes, and international brands knocking at the door: a couple of new five-star hotels, swanky restaurants popping right and left, and an upcoming conference that will enlighten tens of thousands of American travel agents about the wealth that lures tourists to the city, and the country at large.
Even the Donald's getting into the mix.
A new residential/retail/office hybrid bearing the shaggy mogul, turned TV-sensation name will grace Sisli's Mecidiyekoy quarters. The actors are an unlikely bunch--a tendentious publishing mogul, a conservative real estate developer, and the legend himself.
In there lies its potential.... Each party is a brand in their own right, all piquing interest-- and headlines-- at their mere mention. And, if mixed properly, these unlikely bedfellows could be explosive, particularly with Istanbul's capricious socialites.The segment that this starry development hopes to target. Who knows? It could even outshine the Don's other locations in the U.S., Middle East and Central America.
The Trump Towers Istanbul project was launched at a much-publicized ceremony in New York in mid-April, with mogul-in-waiting Ivanka at her father's side. The deal includes two towers, soaring 35 floors above ground, with an additional four floors underground earmarked for retail, according to the last revision. One tower will accommodate offices, while the other luxury residential space. Both towers will differ slightly in design and height, according to the latest renderings unveiled online by Brigitte Weber Archirects insiders. All in all, the projet will rise some a 23,370 m², with a total construction area of 244,428 m², and is expected to completed by 2010.
STRICTLY SPEAKING: MONEY-- PARA
ATTENTION SPEED FANS
Istanbul's Formula One Grand Prix has been rescheduled from September to May. Thank God; maybe the F1 GP committee finally understood that holding these races in a 100-degree-in-the-shade weather's not working out. Well, cross your fingers and hope it'll stay in late spring.
If you do get a chance, come and check it out. That is, if you can still get those your hands on tickets. Aside from TV and sport celebrities, the race at Istanbul's brand spanking new (not even three years old) Grand Prix racetrack in Samandira, an outpost on the city's Aisan flank, is exciting, to say the least. Tens of thousands in denim cheer for the usual red stable, none other than Ferrari (it's big here).
The parties at the clubs about town also ratchet up a bit. Check out Crystal (same street at No. 65, +90 (212) 229-7152, www.clubcrystal.org) or Anjélique (Muallim Naci Cad. & Salhane Sokak 5, Ortaköy; +90 (212)327-2844, 6 p.m.-4 a.m. daily), if you can't get in to Reina.
Have fun....
STRICTLY SPEAKING: Car--Araba (Pron. as it is read)
BEACHES IN ISTANBUL?
So you’re coming to Istanbul and you won’t have much time migrate south to toast your rump on Turkey’s exquisite Aegean or Med coasts? Perhaps on another trip then...
Whether you’re seeking haven on the Black Sea, the Sea of Marmara or on one of the Prince Islands, there are several beaches to choose from. It just depends on your preferences: the cooler waters of the Black Sea, where some of the city’s younger-set go out to play, or the warmer blue of the Marmara.
Prince Islands:
Büyükada – A handful of public beaches lie on the archipelago’s largest island, like Yoruk Ali , Princess, Kumsal, and Nakibey beaches. No matter where you decide to set your anchor, it is after all an island, so if there’s a piece of sandy real estate you’d like to try, by all means do so. You might also like to try some of the beach clubs that’ll provide chaise longues and parasols for a fee. My recommendation: Yaman Beach Club (Prenses Koyu, Büyükada, Adalar; tel: +90.216.382 81 11) lies right by the pier, where you can bask in teh serenity of the island while gazing at the concrete jungle across the Marmara.
Heybeliada – Missing your Stairmaster session? Hiking the island’s steeper cliffs here will definitely get your heart pumping. In between spikes, relax at the port city of Heybeli’s cove and water club. Green Beach Club (tel: +90.216.351 16 00; Web: http://www.clubgreenbeach.com/default.asp).
Burgazada – The public space on this, Prince’s Islands’ third largest, is mainly beaches, so take your pick!
Caddebostan, Suadiye & Boastanci Beaches – Located in their eponymous Asian boroughs along the Sea of Marmara, the people’s beaches get crowded once the schools shut their doors for the term, but their proximity to the shopping mecca of Bagdat Caddesi and location right smack in the center of the action might just offer the exhausted a much needed respite.
Küçüksu - The two-year old reopening of this small sandy enclave on the north eastern shore of the Bosphorus is public, but beware as the currents here can get tricky and best left to non-amateurs. Upside: You swim run into a dolphin!
Kylios - The Black Sea resort is just 35 kilometers away from the city center, but well worth the trip. The waters here are cooler, and the occasional undertow might catch the inadvertent swimmer off-guard . Come June, beach clubs like Nonstop Beach (Kilyos Turban Yolu, 4, Kilyos, Istanbul; Tel: +90.212.201 23 05 ; Web: http://www.nonstopbeach.com/Kilyos Turban Yolu No:4 Kilyos / ISTANB
With all these sandy options, you’d be a fool to limit your dipping to just your hotel’s pool!
STRICTLY SPEAKING: Pool - Havuz (Pron. havouz)
TRIPPIN' ON THE BLACK SEA SHORE
Away from the hustle of the downtowns of Istanbul lies serene Demircikoy, an enclave nudged between the Black Sea coast and the Belgrade forest. Pristine shores, far away tankers, and some great eateries await those willing to take on the 30-minute sinuous drive. That is, during the off-peek hours, of course!
Once there, Uzunya Restaurant awaits the road-weary with the day's tasty catch, in addition to their full range of meze. What to eat? Depends on the season. But 2008 so far has proven to be the year for tekir – the bottom feeding striped goat fish, and lakerda – a slice of a large Bosphorus bonito cured in salt. Both are great at Uzunya, but the proffered seafood mezes of delicately fried calamari with tarator sauce, and octopus either grilled or served cold with olive oil are also a must.
Did anyone say dessert? The stewed seasonal fruits, like quince or pumpkin ,served with Kaymak – clotted cream, are also faaabulous. Their Turkish coffee served along with mint liqueur will serve as the exclamation point to a perfect regional meal.
Before going, check out the restaurant's deck, which hovers right above Uzunya's private beach. Great in the summer, when the establishment opens its doors to campers, sun worshipers and swimmers alike.
Don't wanna drive? No problem. To get to Demircikoy from the port of Sariyer, hop on a dolmus – a communal taxi – for the 11-kilometer ride. From there, hire a cab for the 5K drive down to Uzunya (www.uzunya.com; tel:+90.212.204 07 33)
STRICTLY SPEAKING: beach – plaj (pron. just as it sounds)
BUYUKADA: A NEW SPIN ON AN OLD DESTINATION
For centuries, the Prince Islands just off of Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara have lured tourists and weekenders alike for some well deserved R&R.
The tried and true must-do once on Büyükada, the largest of the five islands, is still the donkey ride around the 13-kilometer isle. For those seeking a little bit more of a cardio workout, the road also accommodates pedestrians... and cyclists. Don't have a bike? One can be rented from the center of town, just a hop and a skip away straight up from the embarcadero.
At about the nine-kilometer mark , the Kaya Yoga Retreat will loom on the left. Check it out.... This is one of the newer attractions there; one that's sure to reawaken the senses. And get you to reconnect with your inner master, especially if the trip to some time hectic Istanbul's been a long one. By the way, Naya guests can also lengthen their stay in the rooms, and tents offered by the establishment.
After exercising your heart and soul, accentuate your trip with a meal of grilled seabass, bream or turbot prior to boarding at the restaurants sand cafés lining the port prior to hopping on the ferry for the 30-minute trip back to reality.
STRICTLY SPEAKING:
Excuse me (when requesting something) – Pardon
Excuse me (apology) – Ozur dilerim (euzur dilerim)
THE FAB FIVE: ISTANBUL'S BEST SHOPPING LOCALES
As large shopping structures pop out virtually out of nowhere on a monthly basis –– it seems –– the list below offers what is still considered to be the top places to drop dough in Istanbul.
1) Grand Bazaar – Kapali Carsi (Covered Market): The uncontested shopper's dream, is about five-and-a-half centuries old yet remains the only labyrinthine structure to beat. With more than 4000 tiny shops, whose owners tirelessly haggle for a claim of your purchasing lira, euro, or even dollar – acquiring mementos to take home has gotten a little more complex than just deciding between that silky carpet or that fab leather coat. Jewelry – peddled by some of the best customizers in town – is hot; even natives in the know get their goods here. With some of the most fragrant spices, glazed Kutahya porcelain, knock-off designer accessories, that must-have belly dancer outfit, and dining choices as well as coffee shops all confined on some 60 streets the lure of the Bazaar is delivers the goods.
2) Nisantasi: With the City's mall awaiting to open its doors to a media blitz, Nisantasi (Nishantashe) is Istanbul's much smaller version of New York's Fifth Avenue. This is were the brands made their foray into the Turkish market.
Getting There: Located right at the intersection of Tesvikiye Street and Vali Konagi Street... It's been geotagged, so you won't be able to miss it.
3) Istiklal Caddesi: The street from Taksim was once the city's shopping center. Today it's also become victim to the brand trend, squeezing most of the older shops out of business. It's well worth the trip though, as the thoroughfare's contagious vivacity coupled with modern façades etched from historical buildings stimulate first-time visitors and locals alike.
Getting There: Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Street) flows from Taksim Square.
4) Bagdat Caddesi (Bagdad Street): Just a hop across the Bosphorus, the Asian thoroughfare is now a powerhouse among all shopping venues. The traffic here is fierce, particularly on the weekends, but well worth it. It's also a great place to stroll, or to just imbibe the local – albeit posh – culture.
Getting There: Hop on a ferry from the European to the port of Kadikoy, claim your seat on a communal taxi or hail a cab to Bagdat Caddesi (pron. Bahdat Jaddesi). Specify the borough of Erenkoy to be dropped off right in the midst of the action.
5) Istiniye Park: The latest mall to open, the shopping structure even boasts shops and a variety of services in its parking structure! This is the place to get it all, from a 100-inch plasma TV and Bruno Magli's latest sequin dress to a kilo of bananas and a pair and a bag of diapers, Istinye Park has it all. Alas, why didn't they think of including a hotel!
Getting There: Istinye Park's so big it bears no address. Its location's been geo-tagged, check out the map for its location.
STRICTLY SPEAKING: How much...? – Ne kadar? (pron. as read)