Latest posts from our Paris expert:
The Night of the Museums - May 17
This Saturday, May 17, is "La Nuit des Musees". Throughout France and in many other European cities, museums will stay open late (closing between 11pm and 1 am) and admission is completely free. Many museums have also planned special events such as concerts, lectures or movie screenings for this evening as well. The big name museums like the Louvre and Musee d'Orsay are likely to be absolutely packed, so why not use this opportunity to check out one or two of Paris' smaller museums, like the Musee Camondo, featuring decorative arts and furniture in a hotel particulier near the Parc Monceau, or the Musee Guimet with its collection of Asian art. Personally, I hope to visit the lovely Musee Rodin and participate in one of the flashlight tours of the garden.
http://nuitdesmusees.culture.fr/medias/pdf/idf.pdf
Monumenta 2008 - Richard Serra
The Grand Palais, a contemporary of the Eiffel Tower, is an exhibition hall built for the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1900. The immense space is 13,500 square meters (or approximately 400 times larger than my apartment) and could be said to resemble a giant Art Nouveau greenhouse. It's difficult to imagine how contemporary art could fit into this decided dated place, but each year the Monumenta program gives an artist the opportunity to present a single new work in this space. The program this year runs from now through June 15 and features "Promenade', by the American sculptor Richard Serra.
Serra is known for his large minimalist steel sculptures. For this exhibition, he has filled the hall with six upright steel panels, evenly spaced across the length of the hall. The panels rise from the floor at slight angles, so they are not perfectly aligned. I had an assignment in a college art class to make a piece of art that required the viewer to move. There is beauty in the way Serra's plain panels interact with the elaborate architecture of the Grand Palais, but the real joy in this exhibit comes from walking among the panels. This is not sculpture that you stand back and admire from a distance - the experience is the art.
The Monumenta program includes lectures and concerts (including one by Philip Glass) as well as Thursday night dance classes in the exhibition space. You can also see more of Serra's sculpture at the entrance to the Jardin de Tuileries and the LVMH headquarters.
http://www.monumenta.com/2008/content/view/3/27/lang,en/
Tuesday Night Cinema
Paris is a great city for moviegoers. A quick glance through the movie listings of last week's Pariscope shows treats such as a Wes Anderson retrospective and a Martin Scorsese festival alongside the latest French, US and European releases. There's even an association, Forum des Images, supported by the city of Paris, which has among its goals fostering discussion and debate on films and the questions they pose in our daily lives.
One of the coolest offerings of the Forum des Images is the "Cine-Mardy' program. Once a month on a Tuesday, classic films are shown at the Max Linder Panorama theater at Grands Boulevard. On May 13, you can see Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and prior showings include Psycho and Ben-Hur Make no mistake, though, this is not just an old film showing at a second-run theater. The event includes a master of ceremonies and the promotional materials promise "surprises' in addition to the feature presentation, and the Max Linder Panaroma is a showcase theaters. Opened in 1914 by burlesque actor Max Linder, the theater, with its 1930s style architecture (marble floors, frescoed murals on the walls) seats 700 on three levels and boasts an 18 meter panoramic screen.
If you can't make it next week, the next screening is West Side Story in early June. Also, keep in mind that Cine-Mardy is just one of the interesting programs sponsored by the Forum des Images. See their website for other offerings, like your chance for an individual viewing of one of the films in the collection of over 6000 meant to be an audio-visual history of Paris.
http://www.forumdesimages.fr/fr/cycle.php?ccl_id=313
http://www.maxlinder.com/
Bois de Boulogne - Rain or Shine
If you want to feel the sun on your face but are tired of sitting at a busy sidewalk cafe, head out to Bois de Boulogne and walk the "two lakes". Whether it is sun that you are seeking or a bit of nature, rain or shine, this park is a pleasant escape from the narrow crowded streets of Paris. The Bois de Boulogne, 865 hectares, lies on the western edge of Paris and is bordered by the very residential cities of Neuilly and Boulogne. It was once a forest kept for royal hunts, created under Napoléon III (second part of the 19th century), and designed by the Baron Haussman.
Hornbeams, Beeches, Limes, Cedars, Redwoods, Chestnuts and Elm trees are found here along with two racetracks, the Roland-Garros Tennis Stadium, the Pre Catalan Gardens and Shakespeare Garden (an open-air theatre), the Bagatelle Rose Gardens, the Serres d'Auteuil (green houses and gardens), the Jardin d'Acclimatation, as well as two romantic lakes (where row boats are available for 10 euros an hour).
History
"Under Philippe IV it was given the name of the Bois de Boulogne following the construction of Notre-Dame-de-Boulogne-le-Petit. The lands, given by Childéric II to the omnipotent Abbey of Saint-Denis, were for a long time to become the site of many monasteries. Philippe-Auguste bought the main part of the forest from the monks which he made part of the Crown to create a royal hunting reserve. In 1256, Isabelle de France, sister of Saint-Louis, founded the Longchamp Abbey.
During the One Hundred Years War, the forest, already quite unsafe, became the haunt of robbers, before being pillaged by the Parisians. Under Louis XI, the estate was reforested and two roads were opened.
After François I built the Château de Madrid, a masterpiece of Renaissance art, the Bois de Boulogne became a place where festivities were held. At this time, the forest having been restocked with game, was reforested. It was then enclosed by walls under Henri II and Henri III, interspersed by eight gates. Subsequently, all the monarchs contributed to the embellishment of the Château de Madrid and Bois de Boulogne."
Note: Porte Dauphine is the main entrance -16e (tel. 01-40-67-90-82) Métro: Porte Dauphine (Line 2, RER C), Les Sablons (Line 1) or Porte Maillot (Line 1, Line 10).
The Bagatelle Gardens hosts an annual International Rose Competition in June.
Source: Mairie De Paris
http://www.v1.paris.fr/EN/Visiting/gardens/bois_boulogne.asp
A Must Have
Pariscope, a popular weekly magazine available at Parisian newsstands and kiosks was established in 1965 and covers the current and forthcoming entertainment events in Paris over the next week, including theatre, music and films. It is cheap and essential if you want to know what's happening around town.
Available each and every Wednesday, pick one up!
The magazine, all in French, begins with culture news, then lists "Théâtre" and what's playing at all key theater venues. "Musique and Concerts Classiques" follow, listing each day's events (program, location, time, price), including both opera houses if performances are scheduled.
"Visites et Promenades" covers outdoor events, including outdoor theater, flea markets, sound-and-light shows (son et lumieres), key monuments such as the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, river cruises, parks, zoos, and aquariums.
The "Enfants" section covers myriad possible children's activities. "Spectacles" are shows (like magic shows); you'll also see many "Marionettes" shows and "Cirques" (circuses) — both are fun, even for non-French speakers.
"Cinéma" makes up one-third of the magazine. The "Films en Exclusivité" pages list all the films playing in town. While a code marks films as "Comédie," "Documentaire," "Karaté," "Erotisme," and so on, the key mark for tourists is "v.o.," which means version originale (original language version). "Dessin Animé" means cartoon. Films are listed alphabetically, by neighborhood ("Salles Paris") and by genre. To find a showing near you, simply match the arrondissement. "Salles Périphérie" are out in the suburbs.
"Arts," lists current hours for temporary expositions and all the museums (tlj = daily, sf = except, Ent = entry price, TR = reduced price — usually for students and children).
The "Sport et Bien Etre" section lists public pools, hikes, steam baths, and sporting venues.
For cancan mischief, look under "Paris la Nuit."
In Effect.
Smoking Ban in Effect as of January 2nd, 2008.
As of January 2nd, the final step under a 2006 law prohibiting smoking in public places, came into effect. Smoking is no longer tolerated indoors throughout France, forcing people outside. Are people complying and adjusting to the change? Yes and Paris is a livelier place because of it.
There are people up in arms but the few smokers that I know, are quite happy to step outside. The rest of us are ecstatic because this ban has given us the chance to experience more of this city. No longer do we have to decide on where to go for coffee, drinks or a meal based on air quality alone. Food and atmosphere are once again valid criteria for decision making.
One has to dodge cigarette smoke more regularly while walking along the sidewalk but, the buzz that is created by bunches of people outside chatting, is welcoming - especially on a dark winter evening.
Read more here:
iht.com
Note: Smoking is allowed in outdoor cafés and special indoor hermetically sealed areas, furnished with air-extraction systems and subject to extremely rigorous health norms.
Those caught lighting up inside will face fines from 83 to 100 euros (some sources say up to 450 euros) while owners who turn a blind eye to smoking in their establishments face a 135 to 750 euro fine.
Ice-Skating + 16th century French Renaissance Architecture
Every winter, from December 1st to March 9th, a large ice-rink is created outside the Hôtel de Ville, Paris's City Hall. When I first came across this skating rink, almost exactly a year ago today, I was taken aback. I was drawn to the square in front of Hotel de Ville by the sound of dance music and the site of a very large 'fake' igloo. To my surprise, I discovered a skating rink bustling with people of all ages, many of whom appeared to be on ice skates for the very first time. I stopped for a few minutes to take in the sites; a skating rink in front of a massive building that was exuding history and cultural importance. When I was a child, we had a skating rink in our back yard every winter but the sites (and sounds) were never this good.
Hôtel de Ville has been the location of the municipality of Paris since 1357, housing the local administration and the Mayor of Paris (since 1977). The Paris City Hall was rebuilt after the 16th century original building was set to fire during the 1870 Parisian revolution. During the Middle Ages, people sentenced to death were hung on the Hôtel de Ville square in front of the city hall.
This square is now peaceful and decorated with one hundred and eight statues, representing famous Parisians, thirty other statues represent French cities. The clock at the central tower is adorned with several feminine sculptures representing the Seine River,The city of Paris, 'Work' and 'Education'.
I can't think of a better place (since there is little chance of the Seine freezing over) to spend a winter's afternoon skating, and the experience is free, if you bring your own skates, 5 euros otherwise.
Notes: The Hôtel de Ville is close to the Pompidou Center, the Marais district with the Place des Vosges and the Cité Island and Notre Dame. Facing the Hôtel de Ville, the BHV department store, 52, rue de Rivoli, specializes in hardware and fashion (Tel 33 (0)1 42 74 90 00).
Hôtel de Ville on line 1.
Place de l'Hôtel de Ville
1 Dec 2007 - 9 Mar 2008
Free; skate hire €5
Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday from 12pm-10pm; Friday from 12pm to 12am; Sat 9am-12am; Sun 9am-10pm