Latest posts from our Rio de Janeiro expert:
Paulista Invasion!
Historically, Rio de Janeiro's culinary scene has been considered something of a poor relation to that of sophisticated São Paulo. A semi-friendly rivalry has long existed between the two cities, and Paulistas (as residents of Brazil's teeming metropolis are known), have long looked down their noses at the dining options available in Rio.
Things are starting to change, however, and the scope and quality of food available in Rio is being held in increasingly high regard.
Ironically, much of the new wave of culinary influence has come from São Paulo itself, with many succesful restaurants from the 'big smoke' opening sister branches here in Rio.
This 'Invasão Paulista' began in earnest in 2001, with the opening of the restaurant Carlota, whose São Paulo branch had won a string of accolades for its contemporary menu. The restaurant was welcomed with open arms by cariocas (Rio locals), who appreciated the considerable skills of chef Carla Pernambuco. Encouraged by the success of Carlota, other chefs and owners began to consider their Rio options, and today much of the dining scene here has a Paulista accent. Notable recent openings include Japanese restaurant Nakombi (where, bizarrely, sushi is prepared in a combi van which sits in the middle of the restaurant...), Italian restaurant Gero, and a branch of the Italian restaurant Fasano - considered a real Paulista icon in terms of style and quality. Last year, Fasano increased its presence in Rio with the opening of the Fasano Rio hotel, and the luxury hotel restaurant Fasano Al Mare. The restaurant, which specialises in seafood, won awards within just a couple of months of opening. Fasano is open to non-guests, but reservations are always necessary, and prices are among the highest in Rio.
Feira Rio Antigo
Browsing for antiques may not sound like the most exciting way to spend a Saturday afternoon, but this is Rio, and things are done differently here. On the first Saturday of every month, Rua Lavradio, in Centro, is transformed into a giant outdoor antiques market, where bargain hunters peruse the hundreds of stalls to the sound of live samba and choro. A DJ blasts out tunes from every genre of Brazilian music, and locals of all ages gather to browse, chat, and dance. You don't have to be an antiques enthusiast to find something of interest here - vintage clothing, handmade accessories, and cool little arty trinkets are all available. Look out for the stall selling perfect replica favela houses made from painted cardboard, at just R$10 per piece. The street is lined with pavement cafes selling high quality Brazilian food, and street vendors roam the pavements peddling everything from corn on the cob to Bahian fish stews. Although Centro is generally not the safest of areas at weekends, the market is well-policed, so you should feel free to take your camera. Just be careful to keep it hidden during the bus ride there and back!
Cidade do Samba - Samba City
Rio Carnival 2008 may have been and gone, but those who missed out on this year's festivities can enjoy a taste of the carnival spirit at Cidade do Samba (Samba City), in Rio's docklands.
Here visitors can hear live samba music, watch carnival rehearsals and see the elaborate costumes and displays being put together - Rio's carnival parades are the stuff of legend, and putting the shows together is no easy task, with rehearsals and preparations for the next year beginning almost as soon as carnival is over.
A trip to Samba City costs R$20 (about US$10), which includes a guided tour in either English or Portuguese. Those who are itching to strut their own funky stuff can take part in samba dancing classes.
Samba City is open from 9am to 5pm every day except Sundays and Mondays, when it's closed all day. Several times a year, the doors of Samba City open late for a very special carnival celebration. For R$150, you can witness a 'mini-carnival', complete with pagode music show, buffet, full carnival parades and even a fireworks display at the end of the night. Dates for this year's events have been announced as 11 and 25th of October, 8th and 22nd of November, 6th and 20th of December, and 10th and 24th of January.
Cidade de Samba can be reached by public transport, but it's easiest to take a taxi as the surrounding area is a little unsafe. The address is Rua Rivadavia Correa 60, Suburb Gamboa, Portuaria do Rio Zone. For reservations or more info, call (+55) 21 2213 2503
Copacabana Palace ups the glamour stakes
Since its inception in 1923, Copacabana Palace hotel has been synonymous with Rio glamour and decadance. But while the hotel's classic design and crisp good looks have maintained their appeal over the years, Copacabana itself has become more associated with red light actitivity and tourist traps than with tropical grandeur. With many well-to-do holiday makers opting to make their base in upmarket Ipanema and Leblon, Copacabana Palace clearly had to do something to ensure it could keep up with competition from flashy new hotels such as Ipanema's Phillipe Starke-designed Fasano Rio.
In keeping with Copacabana Palace's emphasis on style and luxury, this year saw the launch of the brand-new, three-floor Copacabana Palace Spa. In the sparkling white surrounds that have long been the trademark of the hotel, the luxury spa offers every beauty treatment you could imagine - from manicures, pedicures and waxing to spray tans (in case you haven't caught enough sun on the beach!), facial peels and lymphatic drainage. Should you be lucky enough to be getting married in Rio, there's even a bridal care suite set aside specifically for ladies being primped and pampered on their big day.
There's also a range of relaxation treatments on offer, but it would take wealthy person indeed to continue feeling stress-free once they see the bill for services!
Copacabana Palace is located at Avenida Atlantica 1702, Copacabana.
Dengue outbreak in Rio - advice for travellers
At the time of writing (April 2008), Rio de Janeiro has been hit by an outbreak of Dengue fever - over 60 people in Rio state have been killed by the mosquito-borne disease so far this year. However, travellers planning to visit the city should try not to panic. In the city itself, spread of the disease has been largely limited to the favelas of the Zona Norte (North Zone), an area little visited by tourists.
Certainly, the problem here has reached crisis point - with thousands of suspected new cases each week, the hospitals are ill-equpped to deal with the outbreak and the armed forces have been drafted in to set up emergency health care posts. Many travellers report being sprayed with antibacterials before boarding aeroplanes leaving the city.
While the risk for travellers is relatively low, precautions should still be taken, and as with any disease carried by mosquitoes, the best course of action is to try to avoid mosquito bites. Bring a high strength repellent - preferably containing DEET. Brands bought locally in Rio are likely to be less effective as mosquitoes have built up a tolerance to many products.
The usual advice - keep covered up, wear long sleeves etc - may be a little impractical here in a city where people tend to expose as much skin as possible, but do reapply repellent on a regular basis, and if you happen to be camping in Rio state, use a mosquito net impregnated with DEET.
Most at risk are children and the elderly, so take extra care when it comes to protecting family members. But don't panic! Just be careful and keep an eye on the news for stories about any new outbreaks or trouble spots.