81st Annual Alpini Festival
This weekend was the weekend that hosted the 81st Annual Alpini Festival in Bassano del Grappa in the northern region of the Veneto.
The "Alpini", directly translated meaning "The Alpines", were and still are an elite mountain fighting group of the Italian army. The Alpini were initially created in 1872 with the sole purpose of protecting Italy's northern border in the Alpine Mountains.
Through the years, the Alpini have slowly been disbanded as the need for them has slowly been diminished with modern military needs. However, every year, the veterans as well as currently enlisted members gather in an Italian city or town and host a weekend long celebration, complete with food, music, and A LOT of wine. This whole celebration is a bit strange. When I was speaking to some vets that seemed to be about the same age as my grandfather, they were quite eager to talk about the fact that they could be called into action at any moment and prefer to think of themselves as "in reserve" rather than "retired".
This year, I would estimate that the members arriving from all over Italy numbered in the thousands, if not ten-thousand. They brought with them to the tiny city of Bassano cheese, salami, wine, and sprits from their respective area from which they are from. The public also turns out in full force for this celebration. Don't expect to get a hotel...there won't be any to be found. My suggestion is to rent a trailer or camper and sleep in that. Some friends of mine found refuge in the back of a pick-up and spent the weekend sleeping in sleeping bags.
All in all, it's an experience and a relatively good time. It's almost like Oktoberfest, but on a smaller, 3 day scale. If this type of thing isn't for you, then definitely do some research as to where the next one will be. Each year the city changes and for 3 days, the city shuts down while the Alpini are in town. It's an experience, and in my opinion a good one. Just make sure to dress accordingly for the cool, mountain nights.
A Peaceful Protest...with Gondolas
Today hosted the 34th annual Vogalonga "Long Oar" through the islands of Venice. This event grew out of a peaceful protest in 1974 for the historical tradition of oared boats in Venice rather than motorized ones due to the fact that the motorized boats became dangerous for the canal and for the preservation of the city itself. Since then this tradition has returned, inviting both amateurs and professional rowers in a friendly, non-competitive race from the lagoon in front of Piazza San Marco through the islands of Venice and finally back up the Grand Canal.
The race starts in the Basin near Piazza San Marco in front of Palazzo Ducale. All of the rowers start by singing praises to San Marco before the start of the race at 9am. From there it rounds the island of Venice and heads down the main canals of Burano, Murano, and some of the other islands that make up the outlying "'suburbs" of Venice.
When it initially started there was diminishing interest in rowing a boat in Venice as much of the world was turning to the new Motorized versions. Now, after 34 years, rowing in Venice is a huge past time and has spawned hundreds of rowing clubs in the area that have their own rowing teams made up of 2, 10,12, even 20 rowers! It also attracts teams from all over the globe. Today I saw teams from Hungary, Great Britain, and even a Polynesian team. But not to be outdone there were also individuals, all women, and a group of Monks. For those of you who like to simply Kayak or take the old camp canoe out for a spin every once in a while...you're welcome to participate as well.
The rules for the regata are surprisingly simple. First, you have to have a boat that is powered by oars (gondola, kayak, canoe, hollowed out log), then you have to have at least one rower, and then you have to pay the entry fee...this year it was 15 Euro.
If you happen to be in Venice during the spring, I highly recommend stopping by the canal for this peaceful, colorful regata. In my opinion, the best place to watch is definitely along Canal Cannaregio. This canal was listed as the best place on several websites that I checked out, and after experiencing it...I completely agree. There are numerous cafes and plenty of room on either side due to the large, wide walkways. I was able to find a place and enjoyed a cappuccino in the morning while the first boats drifted by and later a spritz and a sandwich as the larger groups entered the Grand Canal. The Grand Canal offers limited viewing and is usually overcrowded with spectators and it makes the whole day less enjoyable.
If you are interested in participating or just curious to learn more. Click here for the official website.
42Km Through Northern Italy...The HARD Way.
I'm a traveler, I like it, and there is nothing that I like more than getting out on a beautiful Sunday morning in Italy and seeing the countryside in its entire splendor before it wakes up. Granted, I usually use a bicycle or a train, or if I can afford the luxury, I rent a car. Some people, however, prefer to do it by foot. For these people, the San Antonio Marathon is the perfect way to see everything from Vedelago in the province of Treviso to Prato Della Valle in Padova, where San Antonio (Saint Anthony) is the patron saint in which the marathon is named. The race itself is growing year after year and is quite possibly the Italian runner’s version of the Boston Marathon or New York Marathon. The Marathon is open to everybody and provides for a relaxing day in a beautiful Italian city with fantastic weather and a nice bottle of wine along the marathon route. Remember I'm not a runner, so my job as a spectator is to support those that I know in the race. This year it's my friend Giacomo.
On Sunday, you will be able to find me in Padova, the final city on the marathon route, shortly before reaching Prato della Valle along Via Roma. I have located a "bird’s eye" view from which to watch the final moments of the race before it ends in Prato. It should be a great day and a great time. If you are a serious runner, this is definitely a marathon to consider. What could be better than the countryside of Northern Italy as a backdrop for a marathon? The start of the race is schedule for 8:45am; however a slight variant might occur due to live televised coverage of the event. The starting time for the disabled athletes is scheduled for 8:30am.
Complete race information can be found HERE.
Food, Freedom, Rosebuds, & Saint Mark
April 25th, the day that Italy was liberated from the Fascist regime. Today is a national holiday...and rightly so. Venice, as well as Mestre (the mainland Venice), has scheduled a long list of activities and festivities to celebrate, much like every other city in the nation. This day (for Venice) begins at 8:45am with a number of flag raisings throughout the city with numerous city and military officials present. Everything culminates at 8pm in Piazza San Marco with numerous dignitaries present for the lowering of the flag and military honors.
April 25th is also a Saint Mark's Day, the patron saint of Venice. In centuries past, The Feast of Saint Mark was the reason for a procession that took place in the Piazza that had religious authorities as well as civil dignitaries which also included a large number of artists. Basically, just about anybody who was anybody took part in it. Today, everything starts in Piazza San Marco at roughly 9am and things continue all day with food and concerts, two regattas, and a special tradition for the men of Venice.
The procession inside the Basilica with a Holy Mass begins at 10:30am. Later in the day there are two regattas. The first is at 9am from the Bienale Gardens, and the second is as 9:20am from Punto della Dogana. Throughout the day, there are massive BBQ's in Piazza San Marco that serve sausages, ribs, polenta, and chicken as well as serving wine and beer.
This day also holds a tradition for Venetian men. On this day it is a widespread tradition for the men of Venice to give a "bocolo", a red rosebud, to the woman that he loves most. Whoever said that Liberation and Love didn't go hand in hand has obviously never been to Venice on April 25th.
Italian Coffee Dictionary
Before moving to Italy, I knew that Espresso and Cappuccino were both types of Italian coffee. In fact, that coupled with my watered down American coffee that I drank every morning, just about covered my knowledge of the beverage and allowed me to order something with confidence when I was in an airport or train station traveling somewhere. This, as they say, is only the tip of the iceberg.
Since moving here, I have discovered that there are just as many types of coffee and ways of serving it as there are types of pasta and the different sauces that can go with it. The little peninsula of Italy has made the cup of coffee (or caffè) a work of art. This can sometimes be a little overwhelming for a visitor who wants to experience true Italian coffee without looking like a tourist....so, here is some handy information for you to consider.
1. Never order a cappuccino after 10am...no matter where you are or what you're doing. You will instantly be pegged as a tourist and you'll probably pay more because of it.
2. If you plan on ordering a caffè, please remember that you are not expected to linger. The Italians drink their coffee extremely fast and it is not a leisure drink like we Americans tend to think of it as.
3. A caffè "to go" is extremely hard to find. Most places don't even provide the option. I've found it in Florence at one cafe, but never in Venice.
4. If you order at the bar and stand, you'll pay less than if you sit down. This is also true for sandwich places and small establishments that serve "fast food". You will be charged for the "privilege" of sitting at the table and service is added to the final bill.
Here is a list of the most common types of coffee:
- caffè (espresso)—a small cup of very strong coffee, i.e., espresso
- caffè Americano—American-style coffee, but stronger; weaker than espresso and served in a large cup
- caffè corretto—an espresso "corrected" with a shot of grappa, cognac, or other spirit
- caffè doppio—double espresso
- caffè freddo—iced coffee
- caffè Hag—decaffeinated coffee
- caffè latte—hot milk mixed with coffee and served in a glass for breakfast
- caffè macchiato—espresso "stained" with a drop of steamed milk: small version of a cappuccino
- caffè marocchino—espresso with a dash of hot milk and cacao powder
- caffè ristretto—espresso with less water; you might need a knife and fork to cut it, it's so thick and REMEMBER TO BLINK!
- cappuccino—espresso infused with steamed milk and drunk in the morning, but never after lunch or dinner
- granita di caffè con panna—frozen, iced beverage (similar to a slush, but ice shavings make it authentic) and topped with whipped cream
Here is a list of the top 4 and when they are acceptable.
Caffe Correcto: Usually only in the morning, before 10am but can also be as a "digestivo" after dinner in place of a limoncello, whisky, or grappa etc...
Cappuccino: Only in the morning, before 10am.
Caffe Macchiato: Usually ok up to the middle of the afternoon, order this if it is too late for a Cappuccino.
Espresso: available all day, after dinner order a "caffe" and not espresso. It's the same thing, just a different way of ordering for this hour. If you're an avid coffee drinker, try them in this order to fit in with the locals and have unending energy throughout the day.
Up and Down The Bridges
One of the most interesting things about Venice is that the streets are made of water. Because of this, you need a way to cross the "street", so the bridge is obviously the best solution. Venice is composed of approximately 110 islands that are all connected by over 400 bridges.
Each year TGS Eurogroup holds "Su e Zo per i Pont" (Up and Down The Bridges) which is a non-competitive race for everybody from students, families, or individuals through the city of Venice. This year the event is on Sunday April 13, 2008 and marks the 30th anniversary of the event. It all starts in Piazza San Marco. There are two routes to choose from, the longer route is approximately 5 miles in length and crosses 45 bridges, the second is slightly shorter at 3 and a half miles and crosses 32 bridges. You choose which route you want to run...or walk to see all of the beautiful places that Venice has to offer throughout the island on a wonderful spring day. Later you can enjoy some entertainment in Piazza San Marco and dinner in the city, it's the most relaxing, beautiful race you will ever run!
The schedule is as follows and will take place in any weather:
8:00am Holy Mass of "Su e Zo per i Ponti" in Basilica San Marco with "Improvvisando" Choir from Conegliano.
9:30am Gathering of all folk groups in Piazza San Marco. Flag raising ceremony in the presence of dignitaries.
10:00am Lighting the beacon
10:00am Start of Su e Zo per i Ponti from Piazza San Marco (corner of Palazzo Ducale)
12:30pm Folk groups parade in Piazza San Marco with a special prize ceremony to the participating groups.
2:30pm End of the Walk
Additional information can be found online, including race maps, refreshment points, cooperating hotels and restaurants, and directions on how to get to Piazza San Marco.
Don't Get Caught With A Fish On Your Back
For my entire life, April 1st has always been April Fool’s Day. Changing continents didn’t change this fact one bit. This tradition, despite the distance in continents and history, exists on the same day throughout the world I guess. Italy is not excluded.The Pesce d’Aprile (The Fish of April or April Fool’s Trick) is a factor for every youngster and even some adults. Here’s how it works. The youngster very secretly and cautiously attaches a small paper cutout of a fish, with the help of some tape or other adhesive, to the back of a classmate, friend, or enemy. Then everybody who sees this person with the fish jokingly asks “L’hai visto?” “Chi?” “Il pesce d’Aprile!” (Have you seen? Who? The April Fool!) This, of course, is followed by warm remarks of making-fun about the victim. Some of the pranks for adults revolve around free money being given out somewhere, announcements from the ministry about aliens landing on the planet and so on. The media usually reports on the most low-down and yet comical tricks carried out during the day on gullible citizens.
Personally, this didn’t happen to me this year, but I did have the pleasure of seeing some adults walking around town unaware (possibly?) about the fact that they had a small colored fish taped to their back. I guess my co-workers are more kind than others, or they simply kept it as a game for the children. At any rate, I escaped this April Fool’s Day unharmed and mentally stable due to the lack of humiliation and frustration that is normally out there for everybody to endure on this special day.