Latest posts from our New Orleans expert:
Discovering Africa in the French Quarter
After passing by high-priced, fine dining restaurant after restaurant, or tourist trap shop with mediocre food for the unknowing traveller, it’s refreshing to find an establishment where lunch entrees can be had in the $6 range. Bennachin, an authentic African restaurant, owned by a Cameroon native, is exactly that.
Although the food was a little too everything for my taste (way too much salt on the spinach, to the point that my mouth dried up on contact; plantains drenched overenthusiastically in butter), many locals love the boring-looking but interesting-tasting fare found in this French Quarter restaurant. The chicken is subtly flavored and tender, the beef, though sometimes a little tough, well seasoned, and the stews are rich. Many vegetarian and fish dishes populate the menu as well. The coconut-flavored rice that accompanies most dishes is refreshing in the heat, and many dishes have a resemblance to old-school Creole buisine.
Established in 1991 out in the ‘burbs og New Orleans, the restaurant moved to Mid-City before settling down In the Quarter. The décor is Turkich and lively, the music rhythmic and inoffensive and the seating fairly comfortable. The tables, chairs, and hangings are all courtesy of the last owner of the space, but it fits nonetheless.
Take note, though, as with any cheap eats, the service is sub-par. Set aside at least an hour and a half for lunch, and if you’re looking for parking, two. The food comes out slowly and there is no sense of urgency here, so if you’re looking to fill your belly and kill some time, Bennachin is a cheap way to do it.
Zeus' Place - No Olympus
Making arrangements for the care of your dog while you are away is difficult. Though there are many hotels in New Orleans that allow your four-legged companion to accompany you on your travels, there are even more that do not. If bringing your dog into town with you is something you want to do, or if you’re a resident of the city and need someplace to keep your little buddy, dog boarding is the first solution to come to mind. This was certainly the case for me.
Through extensive research, I decided to visit a place listed by local publication Gambit Weekly as “The Best Place to Board Your Dog.” The website made it out that it was run by caring people with a yard and who offered webcam access (which, incidentally, just happened to be down at the time) to dog owners. Optimistic, I made arrangements to check it out. After all, I’m not going to leave my best friend somewhere sight unseen. He sleeps on my Tempur-Pedic pillow and I intentionally leave scraps on my plate for him, if that’s any indication of this formerly starved and once-scrawny dog’s current lifestyle.
The weekend came with an afternoon free of duties, so I found myself pulling up to the facility in the slowly reawakening commercial area of Uptown Freret Street. The front door was locked, and through the glass, you could see some dogs in crates in the reception area and other dogs free-ranging it in that entry room. After ringing the buzzer a few times and finally calling the main phone line, an employee unenthusiastically let me in to give me The Tour.
After what I’d read online, I was not only disappointed but appalled to see the conditions in which the dogs were being kept, and quickly came to understand how they can offer boarding as cheaply as $20 per night. Wire crates with dogs in them were stacked four high. The dogs were two to a concrete kennel, built in the style of the most depressing of animal shelters. This was “so they could play and keep each other company,” claimed the employee. That statement would have been much more believable if the space were a) bigger and b) the place wasn’t packed out to near-dangerous capacity. Larger dogs were housed in larger wire crates in what equates as a poorly ventilated janitor’s closet.
A big redeeming point would have been if the large, run-down yard were filled with sounds of joyous puppy play. However, in the middle of the early afternoon, no dogs were outside other than the two that belonged to the employee, who were being supervised by another young employee on her cell phone. Funny how our tour guide was insistent that the dogs being boarded spent their days in the sun, and yet all of them were crying in their little crates stacked on top of one another.
Needless to say, I continued to search for other options after this visit, a trip I was very glad I took. I went to a few more places, encountered a few other problems, ran into flaky customer service (New Orleans Pet Care by Nicole, for instance – all e-mails are frustratingly responded with “Please call! Please call!”, rather than simple inquiries answered or a call back from them after leaving YOUR number), but nothing was quite as shocking as the discrepancy between that Gambit Weekly endorsement and what was presented. Basically, this is my warning to travellers – never believe the hype and don’t put all of your faith in “Best Of” lists. If you’re looking for a cheap place to dump your dog, Zeus’ Place is fine; if you cherish the well-being of your furry friend, pass this place up.
French Bread, Wheat Bread, Pastries Too
Steam fogs up the big glass windows of the bright blue building with yellow lettering on Magazine Street from early morning to early noon. La Boulangerie, or La Bou as it is affectionately called, finds the weekend lines extending out the front door even though it has moved down the block to a larger location, passers-by pulled by their noses, twitching at the tantalizing smells of fresh-baked bread and pastries. Easily the most popular baked goods destination in New Orleans, it is always a special treat to visit this authentic French bakery (the owners are actually from France!) and indulge oneself.
For special meals and occasions, specialty breads like the Walnut Raisin or Garlic and Herb loaves are an elegant complement. Classic French bread accompanies many a New Orleans dinner, and crusty wheat is an excellent base for an afternoon sandwich. Dense and slightly moist, wonderfully crunchy on the outside, bread flies off their shelves as fast as they can bake them. Their plain croissants are a particular weakness of mine – flaky semi-airy layers of buttery goodness, with a satisfying crunch accompanying every bite. The tops are slightly shiny and sweet, like a light glaze of sugar has been dusted over it. Almond and chocolate croissants are offered daily for the more discerning croissant consumer. Flaky danishes of different varieties, golden turnovers, and rich muffins make for indulgent breakfasts, and at $1.50 to $3 a pop, who can resist?
La Boulangerie
4526 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA
504/269-3777
Jacques-imo's - A Local Legend
Nestled in the Oak Street neighborhood on the riverside of South Carrollton, Jacques-imo’s is the ultimate insider’s spot. Jacques, the quirky owner and head chef, doesn’t advertise his legendary restaurant at all – not like there’s any need to. This funky gourmet restaurant is consistently packed every night of the week after 6:30 pm, with wait times averaging 45 minutes to an hour. They don’t take reservations nor do they ever sacrifice the menu selection even during peak holidays like Jazzfest and Mardi Gras. I’ve waited four and a half hours for a table here once, but I’ve heard tales of six hour periods of excruciating hunger suffered for the quality of a Jacques-imo’s specialty.
This sounds beyond the realm of reason to the everyday traveller, but Tulane and Loyola students and New Orleans residents accept it as a matter of fact, and as a totally sane thing to do. Regardless of the eclectic grandma’s attic vibe, the food really is just that good.
At first glance, Jacques-imos looks completely nondescript and indistinctive; it appears to blend in with the neighborhood perfectly with its tilted walls and Greek Revival architecture with peeling paint. I always know I’m in the right place by the festively painted pickup truck up front (which is used as a dining area during especially busy times). If you actually succeed in getting through the door and fighting through the throng of people, you’ll see a bar through the mass of heads and dim lights. Once a table is available, you’re treated to a whirlwind tour of the kitchen as you walk through it to the dining area. Note here that you’ve just experienced the famous New Orleans shotgun layout for residential homes.
The meal begins at a kitschy vinyl-covered table surrounded in tight quarters with mismatched chairs. A Jesus candle provides the table lighting, while ceiling fans with tackily hued light bulbs whirl ferociously (and dangerously) from their rickety mounts. A barrage of hipster servers bustle around the tight quarters, serving whichever table is closest to where they happen to be standing at that moment and brandishing plates of the most absolutely delectable die-on-the-spot corn muffins. Crispy on the edges, dripping hot butter and garlic, and perfectly moist in the middle, these muffins are the most incredible I’ve ever had. A filling teaser, one could easily fill up on these, but against my gluttonous instincts, I advise against this.
The appetizers are bursting with subtly and rich flavor as well. The crabcakes, fried, drizzled in a light, zesty remoulade sauce and resting on a bed of spring greens are impeccable, and the stuffed shrimp is exactly that – stuffed to the brim. However, the most popular appetizer is the alligator sausage cheesecake, a lushly flavored, densely textured concoction of exotic yet strangely familiar tastes. Fried green tomatoes are a Southern favorite alongside the gumbo. Following apps, all meals come with a complimentary small plate of baby spinach salad with a sesame soy vinaigrette and topped with a large fried oyster.
Gourmet luxury is the predominant theme of the menu (note that the linked menu's prices are no longer accurate, but the selections generally are) featuring lamb, duck, steak, venison, veal, rabbit, portk, mahi mahi, drum and flounder prepared in innovative and inimitable ways. A few chicken dishes and one short rib dish is on the menu, but if you’re looking for basic staples, walk away – other than the fried chicken, you’ll find nothing of the sort here. The duck breast in an orange soy demi-glace is perfectly balanced by the shitake mushrooms and sweet pecans. The creamy ginger sauce for the salmon is a beautiful balance of flavors, as is the mushroom and sun-dried tomato glaze for the tender lamb sirloin. Another phenomenal dish is the eggplant pirogue, stuffed with seafood, floating on a spectacular buttery lemon sauce, and named after a Cajun canoe. The béarnaise sauce for the Chicken Pontalba is overwhelming and the Paneed Duck is far too sweet, but other than those items, I can safely say that most of the dishes are safe bets for an unforgettable experience.
Jacques-Imo's Café
8324 Oak St, New Orleans, LA, United States, 70118
504.861.0886
BYO Beer and Appetite
The light yet complex flavors of the Mediterranean are always in demand in a climate where the heat can be too overpowering for a heavy meal. Lebanon’s Café on South Carrollton Avenue gets it right every time in terms of flavor and value. The available outdoor seating and high ceilings with bright, earth-tone and terra cotta colors relax one immediately, and knowing you’ve just saved quite a bit of your spending money by brining your own bottle of crisp white wine adds that extra little feeling of pleasure and leisure. Since a bar is not part of this establishment, bringing your own alcohol is welcome with no bottle charge to pay.
The crispy falafel at Lebanon’s is absolutely delicious and somewhat addicting. Generous plates of inexpensive Greek salad topped with piles of fresh feta cheese are a staple side, as is the garlicky, dense hummus. The entrée platters cannot be beat, as the portions are generous and come with both of the above sides as well as a basket of light, slightly sweet pita bread. The chicken, though a little dry at times, is wonderfully seasoned and is fantastic in a pita wrap with hummus and creamy yogurt sauce. Gyros are available here, too (the beef and lamb is delightfully fragrant and has a flavor that will haunt your dreams), and even the most unadventurous of diners will find something from their extensive and enticing menu.
Lebanon's Café
1506 S. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans, LA, United States, 70118
504.862.6200
Thai and I
Being a native New Yorker, I am very picky about certain ethnicities of food due to growing up with a large selection of excellence in terms of Asian cuisine. One of the things that disappointed me the most about New Orleans was its shortage of Thai restaurants and the apparent lack of good Thai food among that meager selection, given that pad thai is one of my many obsessions. However, after several years, I have had the fortune of stumbling upon a hidden gem in the Marigny, Sukho Thai, a restaurant that has managed to meet the standards of this discerning consumer time after time.
Hidden away in a mostly residential neighborhood in Faubourg Marigny, this cheery yellow corner building is a sight for sore eyes. Casual and brightly sunlit with high ceilings and a big open floorplan, the feeling one gets is that they are in a semi-outdoor café. Exotic décor in rich earth tones that complement the antique hardwood contribute to the warm vibe, making it an environment that appeals to all walks of life, demonstrated by the constant mix of suits and jeans in the dining room.
Now for the food – noodles are where Sukho Thai excels, the drunken noodles’ sweetness undercut with spice, the dirty noodles bursting with flavor and a fantastic veggie variety. The pad thai is delicious, noodles perfectly al dente every time, and the presentation is well done, the satay, though smallish in portion, is tasty and fragrant. Their fried shrimp wrappers are fantastic, but a little overpriced for the amount and size of the shrimp, since half of it is a deep-fried tail. The cashew garlic chicken is phenomenal as well, and the rotating specials keep the menu exciting. A large selection of teas round it all off, and a liquor license is currently being petitioned for, so it’s BYOB for now – all the better for the thrifty traveller.
Sukho Thai
1913 Royal Street
504-948-9309
Web Site
Great Food, From A to Zea's
Don’t let the fact that there are many locations of Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill floating around the South fool you. This is no ordinary chain restaurant. No, we must remember that this is a restaurant founded on the outskirts of one of the most flavor-rich cities in the world, the first location being the Harahan suburb of New Orleans. Keeping its origins in mind, it’s no surprise that at every location, this is mouthwatering Southern comfort barbeque with butter-drenched down-home sides at its decadent best, to be accompanied by their own microbrewed beer.
But what exactly is so special about Zea’s?
Well, perfectly tender, slow-cooked meats smothered in fragrant, chef-created sauces brings simple rotisserie to a higher level, as does the casually elegant ambience. Beautiful decorations, comfortable booths, and roomy tables make the diner feel right at ease, and the tastefully done dining and bar areas make the reasonable bill a pleasant surprise. The sides are write-home worthy, the whipped buttered sweet potatoes fluffy, the corn grits butter-toasted and rich, the roasted potatoes zesty and perfect every time – even the sautéed corn and sugar snap peas are bursting with decadence. The ribs simply fall off the bones, and the generous chicken portions are flavor-soaked to the bone. An American Kobe beef burger is a new addition, and to make the great selection even better, rotisseried meats like veal, lamb, and slabs of beef with different sauces are rotated every day. Just to round out the menu, a fantastic selection of fresh fish dishes are available, and are the main features during the spring and summer, when lighter fare is necessary in these heavy, humid seasons.