PlanetEye

Far too often, restaurants near heavily frequented tourist sites become "tourist traps" where the food is, at best, pedestrian, over-priced and poorly served.  Cafe Deco does NOT fit that description.

I've been there many times but twice in the last week or so which is what motivated me to write this review. 

Situated at "The Peak", a famous tourist destination whose formal name is Victoria Peak, Cafe Deco is located in the Peak Galleria on the first and second floors towards the front of the building.  It is not in the hideously ugly Peak Viewing structure.  

The views from the restaurant are magnificent except when there are clouds or heavy smog.  Check this link for a a virtual tour of the restaurant.  I prefer to go about one-half hour or so before sundown and watch Hong Kong transition from a city of tall buildings to a city of lights.  I recommend that you make reservations well in advance if you want a window table.  That's another reason I like to go in the early evening: window tables are more available.  If the hostess says they are full, do not be afraid to ask what time you could arrive and depart so that you would get a window table. 

I also recommend taking the time to explore the open kitchens on both floors.  There is an Indian cooking area, a Japanese sushi bar, an Italian area, an oyster bar and a special area for grilled dishes.  Fascinating!

On weekends, there is often a swing style band playing live on the second floor.  There are two bars plus an outside balcony with a great view for those who want to drink but not eat.  

The menu, which I've linked here, is very eclectic, featuring Western food particularly Italian and grilled meat items and Asian dishes including Chinese, Indian, Japanese and Thai.  If you can't find something you like in the three closely spaced pages of the huge menu, I suggest you have no business leaving home in the first place.

The wine list is extensive and reasonably priced.  One of their unique features is an opportunity to sample about two or three ounces each of three whites and/or three reds.  If you buy a bottle of any of them, the HK$74 (US$9.75) charge for the tasting is waived.  I suspect they still make out on the price of the bottle but it's still an interesting way to select a wine.

If you just want to take a "dessert" break, they have an astoundingly complete dessert menu.  I've never been able to find room for dessert after dinner but one of these days, I'm going to convince someone to share with me.

Without even trying to comment on every dish on the menu, I'll recommend a few of my personal favorites.  My wife and I love the freshly baked naan, an Indian unleavened bread served with a yogurt based dip.  That's what we usually order as an appetizer.  Crazy, I know.  They have appetizer samplers which are O.K. but not particularly special.

The salads are generally quite good and the soups are outstanding, particularly the Tortilla Soup and the Lobster Bisque.  

I enjoy most of the Tandoori prepared dishes but have not tried the curries.  Friends, who have, report the curries to be adequate but not outstanding. 

I have tried many of the grilled meats and have never been disappointed.  I am particularly fond of both the rack of lamb and the Victoria lamb chops.  The steaks which come from the U.S., Australia and new Zealand are excellent.   The grilled seafood items are all delicious as are specialties like grilled free-range chicken.  

I am not a big fan of sushi and sashimi but my wife is and she says the offerings are excellent.  I can see they are freshly prepared as ordered.  Same goes for the oysters, which I do enjoy as an additional appetizer with my naan.

The only weaknesses on the menu, in my opinon, are the Italian offerings.  I've never ordered a pasta myself but have been with people who have and they all gave negative opinions of the quality of both the sauces and the noodles.  I have ordered pizzas and they were O.K. but not great.  I think there are just too many really fine Italian restaurants in Hong Kong to take a chance on the Italian food here.  

One last kudo has to do with the service.  The servers seem to be organized in such a way that each table has 3 or 4 people waiting on it (a captain, a headwaiter, servers, water boy, etc.).  The servers must work in teams assigned to a specific group of tables.  As a result there is always someone available to meet your needs instead of having to wait for one particular individual to take care of you.  This type of service is generally only found in very high end eateries.  I was impressed the first time I experienced it here and I remain impressed with the service.

Over-all, as you might have guessed, my wife and I really like this place and almost always take visitors here because we know they will enjoy the experience and also because it gives us an excuse to return.

At one time Carnegie's House of Rock and Roll in Wan Chai was my favorite hang-out in Hong Kong.  Since I've moved to Central District, which is within easy walking distance of approximately a thousand (just kidding) bars and restaurants, I don't get there as often as I used to when I lived in Happy Valley. 

Recently an old friend, who once lived here, was in from the U.S. and we held a mini-reunion at the place.  I realized I miss hanging out there.  I don't remember exactly how my friends and I first started patronizing Carnegie's, but once we started going there, we became regulars for at least 8 or 9 years.  I still get there once a month or so but that's a considerable decrease from the old days.

Our initial impetus was to be there during so-called "Crazy Hour", re-named "Insanity Hour", which runs from 6 to 7pm.  We re-named it "Therapy Hour" and hardly ever missed a Friday night to say nothing of quiz night on Mondays and the occasional mid-week get-together. 

During "Insanity Hour" all well drinks, beers, and the house wines are HK$20 (US$2.60). This compared to regular prices of HK$45 and up. I've never found a place in Hong Kong that has a better price. Not only that, the server comes around and warns you before "Insanity Hour" morphs into a more traditional Happy Hour so you can order as many additional items as you want and drink at "Insanity Hour" prices for at least another hour or more.

Not that Happy Hour Prices are that bad at HK$28 (US$3.60) for most drinks. Happy Hour runs from 5 to 9pm. They serve complimentary hot snacks from 7 to 9pm. I shouldn't admit this but I sometimes fill up on the snacks and skip dinner. They usually serve cut-up sausages, spring rolls, samosas, french fries, and chicken strips. No limit on how many you can appropriate.

As I mentioned above my friends and I re-named Friday night's "Crazy Hour," "Therapy Hour," as we used the time to gripe about our jobs and anything else that was bugging us. Commiseration was encouraged.  Criticism was banned.

Another regular event we would attend was "Quiz Night" on Mondays. At one time it was extremely popular but interest has waned and it isn't anywhere near as exciting as it used to be but it's still fun if you can put together a reasonably large group.

They have a surprisingly extensive food menu with snacks, pub grub, sandwiches, pasta, Asian food, day-long breakfast, and even a few main dishes for the truly hungry. They feature lunch-time specials that are really special.  The wine list is quite extensive and a lot more interesting than in any other pub I've been to in Hong Kong. 

My favorite sandwich is the Steak Baguette. I'm also very partial to the Chicken Wings and the Chicken Strips. They also feature 100+ different types of shooters. Shooters are not my style but others seem to go for them, especially late at night.

Around 10pm the bar dancing begins. Anyone can get up on the bar and dance. There are brass rails to keep the more enthusiastic dancers from raining down on the bartenders.  Bar Dancing seems to be a quite popular activity for bachelorette parties. Carnegie's has special promotions every night.  The promotions change but every night, after 9pm, there are price breaks on something.

The music, sometimes played by a DJ, is 100% Rock and Roll, much of it Classic. The owners also have local bands in from time to time and are noted for their support of local musicians, both here and at the near-by Wanch Bar, which they also own.

In case you were wondering, I have absolutely no connection with Carnegie's except as a loyal customer though not as loyal as I once was.

Since they don't have a web-site, here's some basic information.

Address: G/F, 53-55 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong Island
Phone: +852 2866 6289
Open Hours: 11am-2am daily
Happy Hour: 5pm-9pm daily.
Insanity Hour: 6pm-7pm daily.  

I am an unabashed hamburger freak.  I make no excuses.  One of the first questions I ask when I arrive in a new place is, "Who makes the best hamburgers in town?"  That doesn't mean that a hamburger joint will be my first stop but when the need hits me, I want to be prepared.

I will save you having to ask that question because after extensive research, I have come to the conclusion that the best "traditional" hamburger in Hong Kong can be found at McSorley's Ale House (click on the link for directions).  By traditional, I mean made with 100% ground or minced beef, served on a bun, not covered with a fried egg whether I want one or not,  not including beets or chopped cabbage, not covered by some sauce, etc.  

I have also eliminated hamburgers made with Wagyu beef, covered with exotic fixings, served open faced, and costing upwards of HK$250 (US$32) as recently introduced into Hong Kong.   Nor am I comparing my favorite with McDonald's, Burger King, Jollibee, Hardees, etc. either.  These are fast food venues and cannot compete with a made-to order hamburger served at your table with beer or wine available to order.  I have eaten fast food hamburgers in my day but only as a last resort or because I was in an airport or in a huge rush.

Back to McSorley's - their basic hamburger is served with bacon and cheese. They usually have 3 other specialty burgers but the customer can also order it nude or as I do with only grilled onions and grilled mushrooms.  The bun reminds me of a Kaiser Roll and is touted to be homemade.  All I know is that it's fresh and large enough to cover a half pound of meat.  They usually feature an exotic burger like the current offering which is covered with Brie cheese, but I always pass on those as good as they might be. 

The sandwich is accompanied by McSorley's excellent Fat Chips (fries) and a very good coleslaw plus lettuce, tomato and a bermuda onion slice, all of which can be piled on top of the burger if you wish.  I must admit I always get a side of mayonnaise as I do throw on the tomato and lettuce.   

Lest you think that McSorley's only serves hamburgers, I assure you that they have a full pub-type menu including appetizers, soups, salads, other sandwiches, main dishes like Fish and Chips, Beef and Guinness Pie and Chicken Tikka.  They also serve desserts which frankly I've never tried - too full.  Prices are very reasonable by Hong Kong standards.

While I usually stick to my favorite, I have tried some of the appetizers and my companions have ordered a number of the other items and we all agreed they were quite good.  My wife, Pam, who is as addicted to Caesar salads as I am to hamburgers, loves their Smoked Salmon version.

While I've never been there on the weekend, they do serve a brunch that sounds great.  It even includes roast beef, surprisingly.

Another piece of good news is that smoking is forbidden, although smokers can step outside to satisfy their addiction, drinks in hand.  Since the front of the place is open to the street, it appears to me that it would not be a great hardship for smokers.  On the other hand, families and those who do not appreciate second hand smoke are now welcome at all hours.

As do most of the pubs in Hong Kong, McSorley's features lots of sporting events on TV monitors posted throughout.  The noise can be a little distracting but there are tables in one section where those who wish a quiet conversation can sit.

For months, I walked by McSorley's sign saying they had the best hamburgers in Hong Kong, thinking, "yeah, right" and never giving them a try.  When I finally did, I discovered, at least in my opinion, that they do indeed have the best hamburgers.

Whenever I visited New York in the 1960's and 70's, I always made it a point to get as many people together as I could and trek to Mama Leone's Restaurant where we could stuff ourselves beyond good taste with their "Italian Family Style" meals.

While Mama Leone's is long gone, Hong Kong has its own version of Mama Leone's in Fat Angelo's Italian Restaurants.  Serving Italian dishes, family style, Fat Angelo's is a great bargain and the more people you can corral to join you, the better the bargain.

When it first opened, I, in my ignorance, thought that the concept would never work in Hong Kong.  I could not have been more wrong.  I don't know what I was thinking.  First, Hong Kong people like Italian food, I think primarily because of the pasta and pizza.  Second, Chinese families and friends usually eat family style at the large eateries in Hong Kong.  It is not unusual, in Western restaurants, for the local Chinese to share dishes even if the food is served in individual portions.  Third, they serve complimentary salad and freshly baked, huge, Italian style rolls.  This is unheard of in Hong Kong, where bread and salads are usually ala carte items. 

The menu is quite diversified for a family style restaurant.  13 appetizers, four pizzas, 14 pastas, 13 main dishes including chicken, seafood, lamb, pork and beef.  The only thing missing is veal which is evidently rarely available and extremely expensive.  They have seven dessert offerings including two types of the ubiquitous tiramisu.  Personally, I've never been able to order dessert because I'm just too stuffed after the main course. 

They also have an extensive, reasonably priced wine list as well as beer and mixed drinks.  

Each item is available in large or small size: small for two or three people and large for 4-6 people.  I have found it wise to order one dish for each person at the table.  That way, when we are finished, there are usually enough left-overs so I can take them home eliminating the need to buy lunch for the next two or three days.

In large groups we usually can leave the place satiated for about HK$100-125 per person (US$13-16.25) not incuding alcoholic drinks.  When my wife, Pam, and I go as a couple we usually spend closer to HK$300 (US$39) for the two of us plus wine.   

They also serve brunch on weekends and holidays at their Wanchai and Soho locations including a family style breakfast for large groups.  The best deal is lunch, where for HK$89 (US$11.50), you get soup or salad, the incredible rolls, a main dish, dessert and a non-alcoholic drink.  I like to go there between 2:30 and 4:00 PM, thereby eliminating the need for a separate lunch and dinner meal.  Believe me. I'm still full when I retire that night.

My favorite dishes are the  Broccoli Aglio e Olio, Fried Calamari, Vegetarian Pizza, Rigatoni Bolognese, Linguine Pesto, Linguini with Clams, Rosemary Baked Chicken, Mussels in Wine Sauce, Osso Buco and Italian Sausage with Peppers.  Actually, the only dissapointing dish I've ever had at Fat Angelo's is the Ribs alla Roma and because of the family style service, I've tried most everything.

Fat Angelo's has six locations in Hong Kong - three on Hong Kong Island: Causeway Bay, Wanchai and Soho, one in Kowloon: Tsim Sha Tsui and two in the New Territories: Tseung Kwan O and Tsuen Wan.  Click on the link in the second paragraph for exact addresses and phone numbers.

Wherever you are, it is worth your while to find a Fat Angelo's  for a fun and food filled outing.

Even though, I'm 70 years of age, I, too, was young once.  Many of my fondest and perhaps foggiest memories are of sitting in a 24 hour coffeeshop at 2:00 or 3:00 AM, eating breakfast with my more or less inebriated friends.  

The biggest drawback, as you can imagine, was the quality of the food.  Think a step or two down from Denny's.  The price was usually right, though, and we weren't looking for gourmet food, just something to alleviate the next morning's inevitable hang-over.

Hong Kong now provides an upgrade from those diners of yesteryear with the Flying Pan restaurants.  There are three of them: the original location in Central, on Old Bailey Street near the escalator, in Wanchai on the corner of Lockhart and Luard Rds and on Lantau Island's Discvery Bay in the main mall. 

I had breakfast at the Central Location this morning, a Monday.  I usually avoid week-end mornings because the queue can be quite long.  My order was  for the Puerto Rico version of eggs benedict, an invention of the owner.  It consists of ham, asparagus, tomato sauce,  2 poached eggs, all on an English muffin covered with Benedict Sauce.  With this I received a glass of juice and two side dishes, all for...HK$60 (US$7.80) believe it or not.

My good friend Tom, who lives in Guangzhou, usually orders a Denver omelette with extra jalapenos and then repeats the same mantra, "Why wasn't there a place like this when I lived here."

Since I haven't left town, I can enjoy a truly delightful breakfast anytime I want.  The two Hong Kong Island locations are open 24 hours and offer every kind of breakfast meal I could desire - 10 variations on Eggs Benedict, 16 different kinds of omelette's, four different "Fabulous Flying Combos," pancakes, waffles, french toast, side dishes, cereal, fruit, bagels, biscuits, english muffins, toast, plus so-called "Sunrise Sandwiches" at HK$20.00 each.  Even Denny's hasn't thought of that for early morning sustenance.

They offer bottomless cups of coffee and tea, They also have smoothies, milk shakes, ice cream floats, soft drinks, beer, wine, alcoholic beverages, and mocktails. Have sweet tooth? They've got ice-cream sundaes too.

The prices here are astonishingly reasonable. I don't think I've ever spent more than HK$120.00 (US$15.60) including the service charge.  If you are a long way from an ATM and your cash reserves are depleted, you can have a full breakfast with coffee and side dishes for about HK$85.00 or if you are really broke, a couple Sunrise Sandwiches. 

I do know the owner but that's only because I go there so often she thought she knew me and introduced herself.   I will continue to haunt the place to help insure that it's always there so I can have a great breakfast whenever I want one.

This fabulous restaurant is just up the steps from Hollywood Rd. next to the escalator.  You don't want to miss it.

In the near future, I plan to list those eating places that I consider a "good value."  Bacar will be on the list.  That is not to say it's cheap but then value is a function of getting your money's worth and on that criteria Bacar more than qualifies.

Seven of us ate there last night and the bill was right around HK$200 (US$26) per person, not including wine.  When you consider we were there for two and one-half hours eating all the time, HK$200 is not expensive for what we got.  

The menu is divided into four parts: Little Bites, Pizzas, Salads and Sandwiches and Platters.  Little Bites are basically Tapas, not limited to Iberian Tapas, but rather include things like Pepper Tenderloin, Orange Roughy, Garlic Prawns, Steamed Mussels in white wine and cream, (my particular favorite) and Sesame Tuna.  Most dishes are less than HK$78 (US$10) and three of them will satisfy two person's appetites. 

The very thin crusted pizzas are inventive and delicious.  Some have cheese, some do not.  There are literally dozens of toppings you can choose from if you don't like any of the selections on the menu.  One pizza is plenty for two persons.  They are priced from HK$100 (US$13) and up.

The salads and sandwiches are priced from HK$80 and up.  Once again these are not generic but very creatively packaged.  Like sliced lamb and mint yogurt on a ciabatta served with fries for HK$98.  My wife, Pam, who is a salad afficionado loves the Greek Salad and can make a meal of the salad with a little bread for about HK$75.

The Platters are combinations of items on the menu and, while I've never ordered one, seem to contain enough food to feed a party of four.  They are all priced under HK$200 (US$26).

The wine list, as you might imagine, is extensive and includes many wines by the glass.  One innovation in their wine by the glass service is that they allow you to taste the wine before they pour the full glass.  That way if you don't like it, you can order something different.  This allows people to experiment a little without fearing they'll have to leave a full glass if they don't like what they decided to try.  The full wine list includes some very expensive vintages but also has a number of very good wines in the HK$300-400 (US$39-52)  range.

Bacar has a sister restaurant, Enoteca on Elgin, which has a similar but not identical menu and wine list.  For reasons, I'm not really clear about, I prefer Bacar.  Maybe it's because I went to Bacar first and it appears to be less crowded and more friendly.  Most likely, I'm just being subjective.  I have some friends who like Enoteca better.  

I will most like continue to favor Bacar if for no other reason than it's slightly closer to where I live.

In the last year or so this area has gone through huge changes.  Where there used to be mostly Antique shops and Carpet stores, there are now a number of excellent restaurants, pubs, cocktail lounges coffee shops and juice bars. 

This part of Wyndham St. is an eastern extension of Hollywood Rd.  Wyndham, a little further east, makes a sharp left turn and continues on down to Queen's Rd. Central.  Such street direction anomalies can be found everywhere in Hong Kong.

I re-visited Frog Face Fish last night with two friends, one a visitor from the U.S. and the other a local resident, originally from Holland.  We were wandering the area when I mentioned that my wife, Pam, and I had enjoyed a couple meals there and so we decided on the spur of the moment to have dinner there.

It being Sunday night, the place was uncrowded and quiet.  I recommend making a reservation on weekends, though.  Frog Face prides itself on serving fresh fish, though some of it is flown in.  The Ala Carte menu changes daily but I have found that certain dishes can be regularly found: such as Sesame Crusted Tuna, Pan-roasted Sea Bass, Blackened Red Snapper, Oven-roasted Black Pepper Prawns and for the non-seafood eaters Braised Lamb Shank and Grilled Chicken Breast.  For appetizers, fresh oysters seem to be always available as well as Gravalax, Tuna Tatare, and Crab Cakes.    

They have an excellent wine list with a large wine-by-the-glass selection, including two Chardonnays, two Sauvignon Blancs, two Cabernets, and the usual selection of a Merlot, a Pinot Grigio, a Rose', a Pinot Noir, etc.  These wines hail from all over: France, The U.S., New Zealand, Australia, Chile, Italy, Spain.  These same countries plus others are all represented on the full wine list.  

My friends and I each ordered something different.  I had, my favorite, the Sesame Crusted Tuna with a Mussel and Tomato Soup appetizer.  My Dutch friend, ordered the Pan-roasted Sea Bass preceded by three Oyster Spoons, fresh oysters served in Chinese soup spoons with Wasabi and other Japanese seasonings.  The American had Red Snapper but non-blackened and the soup of the day, a creamy squash concoction he really liked.  I must admit their choices may have been influenced by my previous experiences.   We ordered a bottle of Yarra Valley Pinot Noir to accompany our meal.  

I'm not a restaurant reviewer so I will pass on the temptation to eulogize our dinner except to say we all were extremely pleased with our meals.  I would like to also add that Frog Face serves plentiful portions, something not always true of higher-end seafood restaurants.  My American companion commented that he could have been satisfied with only one of the two pieces of Snapper he was served but was appreciative and hungry enough to eat both. 

While Frog Face Fish is not cheap, its prices are certainly in line with other Western seafood restaurants in Hong Kong with the added benefit of larger portions and superb service.  The bill for three of us was around HK$1200 (US$155) including the wine at HK$440.  

I will continue to patronize Frog Face and not just because it is a five minute walk from my flat.