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Local Expert: Su-Jit Lin

Su-Jit Lin once left her native New York on a whim and a gut feeling and has yet to regret the spontaneous shift that has led her to one of the most amazing and character-rich cities in the world.  A cum laude Tulane University graduate,...

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May 16, 2008
Food

Discovering Africa in the French Quarter

After passing by high-priced, fine dining restaurant after restaurant, or tourist trap shop with mediocre food for the unknowing traveller, it’s refreshing to find an establishment where lunch entrees can be had in the $6 range.  Bennachin, an authentic African restaurant, owned by a Cameroon native, is exactly that.

Although the food was a little too everything for my taste (way too much salt on the spinach, to the point that my mouth dried up on contact; plantains drenched overenthusiastically in butter), many locals love the boring-looking but interesting-tasting fare found in this French Quarter restaurant.  The chicken is subtly flavored and tender, the beef, though sometimes a little tough, well seasoned, and the stews are rich.  Many vegetarian and fish dishes populate the menu as well.  The coconut-flavored rice that accompanies most dishes is refreshing in the heat, and many dishes have a resemblance to old-school Creole buisine.

Established in 1991 out in the ‘burbs og New Orleans, the restaurant moved to Mid-City before settling down In the Quarter.  The décor is Turkich and lively, the music rhythmic and inoffensive and the seating fairly comfortable.  The tables, chairs, and hangings are all courtesy of the last owner of the space, but it fits nonetheless.

Take note, though, as with any cheap eats, the service is sub-par.  Set aside at least an hour and a half for lunch, and if you’re looking for parking, two.  The food comes out slowly and there is no sense of urgency here, so if you’re looking to fill your belly and kill some time, Bennachin is a cheap way to do it.  

  1. FRENCH QUARTER
  2. Bennachin
March 15, 2008
Food

French Bread, Wheat Bread, Pastries Too

Steam fogs up the big glass windows of the bright blue building with yellow lettering on Magazine Street from early morning to early noon.  La Boulangerie, or La Bou as it is affectionately called, finds the weekend lines extending out the front door even though it has moved down the block to a larger location, passers-by pulled by their noses, twitching at the tantalizing smells of fresh-baked bread and pastries.  Easily the most popular baked goods destination in New Orleans, it is always a special treat to visit this authentic French bakery (the owners are actually from France!) and indulge oneself.

For special meals and occasions, specialty breads like the Walnut Raisin or Garlic and Herb loaves are an elegant complement.  Classic French bread accompanies many a New Orleans dinner, and crusty wheat is an excellent base for an afternoon sandwich.  Dense and slightly moist, wonderfully crunchy on the outside, bread flies off their shelves as fast as they can bake them.  Their plain croissants are a particular weakness of mine – flaky semi-airy layers of buttery goodness, with a satisfying crunch accompanying every bite.  The tops are slightly shiny and sweet, like a light glaze of sugar has been dusted over it.  Almond and chocolate croissants are offered daily for the more discerning croissant consumer.  Flaky danishes of different varieties, golden turnovers, and rich muffins make for indulgent breakfasts, and at $1.50 to $3 a pop, who can resist?
Insider's Rating:
La Boulangerie
4526 Magazine St, New Orleans, LA
504/269-3777
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March 11, 2008
Food

Jacques-imo's - A Local Legend

Nestled in the Oak Street neighborhood on the riverside of South Carrollton, Jacques-imo’s is the ultimate insider’s spot. Jacques, the quirky owner and head chef, doesn’t advertise his legendary restaurant at all – not like there’s any need to. This funky gourmet restaurant is consistently packed every night of the week after 6:30 pm, with wait times averaging 45 minutes to an hour.  They don’t take reservations nor do they ever sacrifice the menu selection even during peak holidays like Jazzfest and Mardi Gras.  I’ve waited four and a half hours for a table here once, but I’ve heard tales of six hour periods of excruciating hunger suffered for the quality of a Jacques-imo’s specialty.  

This sounds beyond the realm of reason to the everyday traveller, but Tulane and Loyola students and New Orleans residents accept it as a matter of fact, and as a totally sane thing to do.  Regardless of the eclectic grandma’s attic vibe, the food really is just that good.

At first glance, Jacques-imos looks completely nondescript and indistinctive; it appears to blend in with the neighborhood perfectly with its tilted walls and Greek Revival architecture with peeling paint.  I always know I’m in the right place by the festively painted pickup truck up front (which is used as a dining area during especially busy times).  If you actually succeed in getting through the door and fighting through the throng of people, you’ll see a bar through the mass of heads and dim lights. Once a table is available, you’re treated to a whirlwind tour of the kitchen as you walk through it to the dining area.  Note here that you’ve just experienced the famous New Orleans shotgun layout for residential homes.  

The meal begins at a kitschy vinyl-covered table surrounded in tight quarters with mismatched chairs.  A Jesus candle provides the table lighting, while ceiling fans with tackily hued light bulbs whirl ferociously (and dangerously) from their rickety mounts.   A barrage of hipster servers bustle around the tight quarters, serving whichever table is closest to where they happen to be standing at that moment and brandishing plates of the most absolutely delectable die-on-the-spot corn muffins.  Crispy on the edges, dripping hot butter and garlic, and perfectly moist in the middle, these muffins are the most incredible I’ve ever had.  A filling teaser, one could easily fill up on these, but against my gluttonous instincts, I advise against this.

The appetizers are bursting with subtly and rich flavor as well.  The crabcakes, fried, drizzled in a light, zesty remoulade sauce and resting on a bed of spring greens are impeccable, and the stuffed shrimp is exactly that – stuffed to the brim.  However, the most popular appetizer is the alligator sausage cheesecake, a lushly flavored, densely textured concoction of exotic yet strangely familiar tastes.  Fried green tomatoes are a Southern favorite alongside the gumbo. Following apps, all meals come with a complimentary small plate of baby spinach salad with a sesame soy vinaigrette and topped with a large fried oyster.

Gourmet luxury is the predominant theme of the menu (note that the linked menu's prices are no longer accurate, but the selections generally are)  featuring lamb, duck, steak, venison, veal, rabbit, portk, mahi mahi, drum and flounder prepared in innovative and inimitable ways.  A few chicken dishes and one short rib dish is on the menu, but if you’re looking for basic staples, walk away – other than the fried chicken, you’ll find nothing of the sort here.  The duck breast in an orange soy demi-glace is perfectly balanced by the shitake mushrooms and sweet pecans.  The creamy ginger sauce for the salmon is a beautiful balance of flavors, as is the mushroom and sun-dried tomato glaze for the tender lamb sirloin.  Another phenomenal dish is the eggplant pirogue, stuffed with seafood, floating on a spectacular buttery lemon sauce, and named after a Cajun canoe.  The béarnaise sauce for the Chicken Pontalba is overwhelming and the Paneed Duck is far too sweet, but other than those items, I can safely say that most of the dishes are safe bets for an unforgettable experience. 
Insider's Rating:
Jacques-Imo's
8324 Oak Street, New Orleans, LA, 70118, US
5048610886
Web Site
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March 07, 2008
Food

BYO Beer and Appetite

The light yet complex flavors of the Mediterranean are always in demand in a climate where the heat can be too overpowering for a heavy meal.  Lebanon’s Café on South Carrollton Avenue gets it right every time in terms of flavor and value.  The available outdoor seating and high ceilings with bright, earth-tone and terra cotta colors relax one immediately, and knowing you’ve just saved quite a bit of your spending money by brining your own bottle of crisp white wine adds that extra little feeling of pleasure and leisure.  Since a bar is not part of this establishment, bringing your own alcohol is welcome with no bottle charge to pay.

The crispy falafel at Lebanon’s is absolutely delicious and somewhat addicting.  Generous plates of inexpensive Greek salad topped with piles of fresh feta cheese are a staple side, as is the garlicky, dense hummus. The entrée platters cannot be beat, as the portions are generous and come with both of the above sides as well as a basket of light, slightly sweet pita bread.  The chicken, though a little dry at times, is wonderfully seasoned and is fantastic in a pita wrap with hummus and creamy yogurt sauce.  Gyros are available here, too (the beef and lamb is delightfully fragrant and has a flavor that will haunt your dreams), and even the most unadventurous of diners will find something from their extensive and enticing menu.
Insider's Rating:
Lebanon's Café
1506 S. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans, LA, United States, 70118
504.862.6200
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