PlanetEye

The Hong Kong Heritage Museum in Sha Tin had been open for over five years before I ever visited it.  I had pictured some small second-rate place with amateurish exhibits.  I could not have been more mistaken.  If there is one museum in Hong Kong you should make a special effort to visit, it's this one.  I love the History Museum and kids love the Science Museum, but for really getting a sense of what created and maintains Hong Kong's culture, this is the place to see.

It is a professional, impressive complete museum with 12 exhibit halls, six of which house permanent displays, one of which is an orientation theatre for new visitors.  There is the New Territories Heritage Hall featuring the history of the New Territories, the Cantonese Opera Heritage Hall, a mind-blowing exhibit of artifacts and history including costumes and old movies, the T.T.Tsui Gallery of Chinese Art and Calligraphy, the Chao Shao-an Gallery of Contemporary Chinese Art and the Children's Discovery Gallery.

There are also six thematic galleries for temporary exhibitions.  Other than galleries, the museum has a theatre for various performing arts and talks as well as a café, a traditional Chinese tea shop plus a museum store.  The featured special exhibit at this time is "Jewelry for Life" running until February 16, 2009.  It is number six in the museum's design series.  As you might guess, the newest temporary exhibit is "the Ancient Olympic Games" running until November 24, 2008.

The setting is bucolic and easy to access by train.  The exterior of building, rendered in a somewhat traditional Chinese style, is not that attractive, though many architects might disagree with me.  The 28,500 square meter interior is impressive, though, with a huge open center five stories high, and the galleries and exhibition halls around the periphery.

When we visit, we obviously spend most of our time at the special exhibits but are always drawn to the Cantonese Opera Exhibit, which is a piece of Hong Kong I have totally missed and am fascinated by.  The two Chinese Art galleries are interesting but not compelling, unless you are more knowledgeable than I am.  The history of the New Territories duplicates some of the information in the History Museum, but for someone unfamiliar with the history of Hong Kong, I think it would be quite an eye-opener.

The museum is served by multiple bus lines and has two rail connections.  My wife, Pam, and I like to access it from the Sha Tin station as the 15-20 minute walk takes us through a very nice park along the river.  The park itself is full of interesting goings on, especially on weekends.  If you go via the Che Kung Temple Station, the walk is a mere five minutes.  Check this link for all the transportation alternatives.

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

This is one of a series about some of the accessible islands.  Previous articles covered Lamma, Cheung Chau, Peng Chau and Po Toi.   Today I'd like to look at Tap Mun, a small sparsely inhabited island.

Tap Mun, Tap Mun Chau, its formal name, or Grass Island, as it is sometimes called by locals, is located in the northeastern part of the territory, north of the Sai Kung Peninsula. There are about 100 people living on the island, down from 1950 50 years ago.  Most of the residents make their living by fishing and then sun drying the fish and shrimp which are popular purchases by visitors.

Until 1960, the fishermen and their families lived on their boats.  That changed when the government built the "fishermen's new village" for residents to live in. The island's area is just under 2 km². So give yourself at least three or four hours to explore plus time for refreshments and/or seafood.

The first thing you will see on arrival is Tolo Harbour which is usually crowded with fishing boats.  After landing at the pier, you can turn left and stock up on water and other necessities at a local store before heading out.   You will first encounter a Taoist cemetery and then the over 200 year old Tin Hau Temple on your right.  Tin Hau is the protective goddess of fishermen.   If you're lucky and a strong east wind is blowing you will hear an eerie howling from under the altar.  Some locals maintain that this presages a bad storm.  The temple is definitely worth a visit.

After visiting the temple continue on the same path.  Follow the signs to the Hill Top and Balance Rock - about a 15-20 minute walk.  Balanced Rock is so named because one rock sits in perfect balance atop the other.  This stacking formation is quite unique and looks like a pagoda from a distance.  On the other side of the island in Ko Lau Wan is a similar area called the "Stone Pagodas".  This is actually how Tap Mun, i.e. "pagoda door" got its name.  

At the Hill Top you will discover the Sun Rise Pavilion with views of Mir's Bay, Sharp Peak and Mainland China.  If you dare, you can fly a kite from here or watch others doing it.  This is also a popular bird watching site.  If you feel very adventurous you can camp the night through.  Beware, though, at night the temperatures drops and the winds pick up so bring appropriate clothing.  Also do not camp too close to the cliffs.  

If you are interested in seeing a truly authentic South China fishing village continue north to Lung Keng Kan and Che Wan.  You can also climb to the highest point on Tap Mun, 125 meter high Mau Ping Shan.  Be alert because the path is not always obvious and the brush can be quite heavy to say nothing of the cow dung you might step into.  

There is one rather famous seafood restaurant, New Hon Kee Restaurant, (2328-2428), a local celebrity hot spot.  Their signature dish is fried rice with locally caught sea urchin.   Nearby are a couple of small tea restaurants (cha cha an teng) known for serving 'ice-less' ice-cold milk tea and boiled squid dishes.  The best known of these is Sun Wai Wo (2791-8100).  The Yung Shue Village Seaview Café (2791-8332) has the only room for rent on the island - around HK$250(US$32.50) for two people.

To get to Tap Mun you can catch a ferry or Kai-to from either Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung or Ma Liu Shui Pier near Chinese University in Tai Po.  Round trip prices vary between weekdays and weekends from HK$32(US$4) to HK$50(US$6.50) round trip.   You can also hire a speedboat from Sai Kung for about HK$100(US$13).  Be sure to make arrangements to get picked up if you wish to return by speedboat.

However you do it, a visit to this island will provide you with an experience that few tourists ever enjoy.

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

This is one of a series about some of the accessible islands.  Previous articles covered Lamma, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau.  Today I'd like to look at Po Toi, one of the smallest of the inhabited Islands.

Po Toi is about three or four kilometers S.E. of Hong Kong Island.  It's about four square kilometers in size and can be easily circumnavigated in about three hours or so.  

It's a favorite destination for geology and archeology buffs, bird watchers, weekend hikers, young people out for a little adventure and those of us who love the seafood there.  There is a fairly well-marked trail that winds around the island and will take you to or at least near almost all the sights you would want to see.  It also provides vistas of the South China Sea and many small neighboring islands.

There is also a figure eight trail that is much rougher but far less crowded especially on weekends.   My wife, Pam, reports that one of the less popular parts of this trail is covered with giant spider webs and it took all her courage to break through them and continue her hike.   The good news is that she didn't see any giant spiders, just their webs.   They must weave them at night.

Ancient Rock carvings on the island that date back over 2,000 years have been listed as "Declared Monuments of Hong Kong".   You will find them just off the main trail between the harbor and the lighthouse.   It also has a number of interesting rock formations among them are the Buddha Hand Rock, the Coffin Rock, and the Tortoise Climbing up the Mountain.

At the island's highest point, 188 meter Ngau Wu Teng, there is a shaded pavilion that allows hikers to take a break, enjoy the view and cool off.   There are steps up and down from the top so if people take their time almost everyone can access the pavilion.  

A mansion, once owned by the Mo family, is also on the trail and is a fun place to explore especially for children.   It's supposedly haunted.   It was also used to house Japanese soldiers during WW II, adding to its mystery.

At the end of your hike you have two choices, you can visit the local grocery and eat and drink sitting on the steps outside or you can join the likes of me at the Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant which is very near the pier.   The food is excellent and if you are there on a weekday, you will pretty much have the place to yourself.   I understand there are a couple other restaurants nearby but they aren't nearly as appetizing and are often closed on weekdays.

Ferries run to Po Toi from Aberdeen's Promenade Pier on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.  Except for Sundays and holidays there is only one ferry a day.   There are four on Sunday.   You can take a ferry from Stanley's Blake Pier near the Stanley Market on weekends and holidays.  The last time I went the fare was HK$40 (US$5.20) round trip.    I understand there is ferry service from North Point but I've never ridden it.  Details are available at this ferry link.

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

I plan to write about those islands that are more easily accessible in a series of articles over the next few weeks.  I've written about both Lamma and Cheung Chau.  Today I'd like to look at Peng Chau, one of the smaller inhabited Islands.

Peng Chau, noted for its laid back, rural lifestyle, is a tiny island situated 8km west of Hong Kong Island and a short distance from the southern coastline of Lantau Island.  Its population is over 6,000 which makes this kilometer long island fairly densely populated.  It has similarities to its neighbor Cheung Chau but has far fewer activities available.

One of the first things you will notice is that there are no automobiles, just bicycles and motorized carts.  You can pretty much hike around the island in a little over an hour.  Luckily there aren't many hills, the highest being Finger Hill at 95 meters, which does offer some fine views of all of Peng Chau plus parts of Lantau, Cheung Chau, and Hong Kong Islands.

A suggested hiking route circumnavigating the island can be found on the Discover Hong Kong web-site.  Go to Page 13 of the Outlying Islands PDF File.

If you don't feel like hiking, you can wander the narrow streets close to the pier where you will find a covered market and many shops, restaurants and a few temples, particularly the Tin Hau and Kam Fa temples.  There is a paved promenade nearby on the Southwest side of the island.  

If swimming or sunbathing is your thing, try Tung Wan which is very nice sandy beach directly across the island from the Ferry pier.  If a rural stroll interests you, there are some small farms and a larger organic farm run by the Green Peng Chau Association near Tai Wo in the south-east quadrant of the island.

You can also explore some archeological sites, visit a defunct match factory, once one of the largest in the world, check out the eight other temples or explore the bio-diversity either alone or guided by Green Peng Chau Docents. Check their web-site.  

To visit Peng Chau, check the First Ferry schedules or catch a Kaito (pronounced "kai-do"), a type of small, motorized ferry, from Cheng Chau or Discovery Bay on Lantau Island.

Enjoy!

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

I plan to write about those islands that are more easily accessible in a series of articles over the next few weeks.  

I recently wrote an article about Cheung Chau's Bun Festival which is perhaps what the island is most noted for.  You can find it at Bun Fun on Buddha's Birthday.

Cheung Chau is not the best known of Hong Kong's Islands perhaps because it has few expat residents and no western restaurants.  Cheung Chau has an atmosphere that I imagine is somewhat like that which existed 50 or 60 years ago. Lots of incense sticks burning in the temples, parks filled with card games, the clatter of mah-jongg tiles from the rear of shops or houses opened up to try to catch a stray breeze and people chatting and perhaps gossiping with one another.

The island is actually the most densely populated in the Territory with more than 20,000 residents but it still has its private places which you can access if you choose to follow one or more of the many trails available.  The narrow streets of the major village are lined with traditional shops featuring recently butchered pigs and soon to be butchered live chickens, cheap dai pai dongs (noodle stalls) soon to be extinct if the government has its way, Chinese apothecaries offering herbs and remedies and the older people sitting on benches keeping an eye on the youngsters left in their care. It's far less idyllic on weekends, when the population doubles, so plan a week day visit if you can.

One possible hike is, after exiting the Ferry, to go past the Windsurfing Center to Kwun Yam Beach.  The path up from the beach leads into a small wooded valley.  Follow the signs pointing left to the "Mini Great Wall", climb the steps to the headland where you will enjoy some incredible vistas.  Keep going up to the pavilion at the top and marvel at the view of Hong Kong and Lamma Islands and if you are lucky, on a clear day, you can see Kowloon and the New Territories.

From here you can continue to circumnavigate the Island, seeing interesting rock formations, many temples, an historical statue of the Virgin Mary left by missionaries, and private houses.  Eventually you will end up back at the Public Pier.  You will find a map of possible hiking choices on the Discover Hong Kong Web-site.  Go to page 4 of the Outlying Islands PDI file.  

There are inexpensive guest houses near the many beaches. Wind-surfing is very popular here and Hong Kong's only Olympic Gold Medal winner San-san was raised on Cheng Chau. There are also dozens of seafood restaurants on the waterfront promenade.  They rival the eateries on Lamma Island and in Sai Kung in everything but size.

I mentioned the Bun Festival earlier in this article.  Point is, if you can arrange it, attend the Festival.  It will be held sometime in the Spring - exact date to be announced.

Cheung Chau is easy to get to from the Central Outer Island Ferry Terminals, Pier Five.  Operated by First Ferry, the fast boats take about 30 minutes, the slow ones about 15 minutes longer. It's worth a full-day trip. Take the opportunity to leave the crowds of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon behind and take in some sights and activities most tourists never see.

For more information check out the Cheung Chau HK website which has hundreds of entries from people reporting on what's happening on the Island including personal restaurant ratings, hotel and guesthouse ratings and the latest on activities and events. 

Stand up comedy has become a "big thing" all over the U.S. and Europe.  It is now invading Asia, particularly Hong Kong.

There are two main ways to get your comedy fix here in Hong Kong.  One is to go to Hong Kong's newest full-time comedy club, located in the Soho Area, the TakeOut Comedy Club HK.  Shows are scheduled for every Friday and Saturday night.  There are also open mike nights, Monday in Chinese, Tuesday in English.  Additionally, The People's Liberation Improv Troupe performs every first and third Friday of the month.  There are also surprise guest performers on an unscheduled basis.  Much of the comedy is in English, some in Chinese and some of the comedians switch back and forth between Chinese and English.

Jami Gong, TakeOut's owner and founder has also organized the Second HK International Comedy Festival, October 9-18, 2008.   All performances will be at the TakeOut venue. 

The second way to get your fix is to catch the traveling acts that are imported for one or two nights.  Two of the most popular venues for these are Grappa's Cellar in Jardine House, Central and the Viceroy Indian Restaurant in Wan Chai.   Most of these shows are sponsored by the Punchline Comedy Club.  Many of the acts originate in the U.K. with some from the U.S., Canada and Ireland.

I attended just such a show last night, Friday, July 4, brought to Hong Kong by someone, who I was introduced to as Shanghai Dave but is actually a Hong Kong native.   It was somehow affirming to attend a performance by U.S. based comedians on the Fourth of July.

The two headliners were Jesse Joyce, originally from Pittsburgh PA and Keith Alberstadt  from Nashville, Tennessee.  Joyce has a more traditional stand-up act where he goes from topic to topic, more or less, as the spirit moves him but without a lot of ad-libbing, at least as far as I could determine.  Alberstadt (not a stage name as you might guess) did more interaction with the audience and does not put out as fast paced a delivery as Joyce.

Both were good dealing with a pretty tough audience.   Most of the guests were Chinese with a bunch of Aussies, Brits and Canucks thrown in.   Many of the Chinese, I suspect, were educated overseas and/or carry dual HK/Canadian citizenship.   There were some Americans but not a lot of them and I'm sure more than a few of the jokes went unappreciated because of the subtle connections to U.S. culture.   I have a similar problem when I see a British stand-up comedian.

Comedians, some stand-up, some improvisational, some rehearsed, also appear at the Fringe Club in Central District from time to time.  Click on the link for information.

While Hong Kong has a long way to go before it could be considered a comedy destination, it's actually quite easy to find comedy shows and I suspect it will get easier in the future, especially with Jami Gong priming the pump. 

I don't usually write about things that I haven't experienced or at the least have a first party review of from someone I trust.  I am making an exception here.

One of the reasons I'm doing so is that nobody I know has ridden on this burgeoning white elephant.  The reason most people who have been here for any length of time avoid this tourist attraction is that it has a dismal safety, reliability and customer service reputation.

At first it sounded like a great idea.  Ride a cable car to the top of the mountain on which rests the largest sitting Buddha in the world.  Passengers can leave from Tsing Yi which is near the airport and is serviced by the MTR.  By doing so they avoid the long, twisty ride up to the spot to say nothing of the ferry ride to Mui Wo on the other side of Lantau Island.  What could be better?

Unfortunately the ride has been plagued by a series of near-disasters from having to delay its opening because of safety and other issues, to shutting down in mid-operation for two hours, stranding hundreds of people hanging over the hillside, to having a run-away cable car undergoing "safety testing", to poor communication when it has to shut down, to underestimating the force of the winds on the cable car route, etc., etc., etc.  Just two days ago, June 26, passengers were stranded for 30 minutes because of a faulty sensor.

The original operator has been ousted and replaced by the MTR corporation, which has about as much experience running a cable car operation and tourist attraction as I do.  The Tour Companies are dropping this attraction in droves mostly because they cannot count on being advised if it is not operating which results in a wasted two hour bus ride.

My advice is to Take the Ferry and Lantau Island Tour which takes you from Hong Kong Island to Mui Wo and then provides a van and driver to escort you to various attractions including the Sitting Buddha. the Tai O fishing village and some of the beaches.  I've now done this tour 3 times and at HK$150 (US$19.25), it's one of the best touring bargains in Hong Kong.

So enjoy the ride and eliminate worrying if you are going to be able to use Ngong Ping 360 as planned or even worse suffer through one of the ride's frequent failures.