Rio's jazziest guest house
Imagine the scene: assorted artists, writers and musicians sit sipping red wine, listening to live jazz and enjoying a view over twinkling harbour lights to Sugar Loaf mountain. OK, now imagine all this happening at the top of one of Rio de Janeiro's notorious favelas, or shanty towns.
Sounds unlikely? Then you need to take a trip to The Maze Inn. This unique guesthouse and occasional live music spot is located at the top of a favela that clings to a hillside behind the downtown neighbourhood of Catete. Here you can hear live jazz each Friday, as local musicians and visitors take to the stage to perform improvised yet sophisticated sessions. 'Casa do Bob', as it's known to locals, was opened in 2005 by Bob Nadkarni, a charismatic English artist and musician who has lived in Rio de Janeiro for some 30 years, and has many tales to tell about his time here.
While The Maze's favela location is off-putting to many locals, it has proved a big draw for foreign visitors curious to learn more about life in Rio's slums. The favela in question is, by Rio standards, safe. Narco-trafficking is virtually non-existent here, and the community is well accustomed to guests wandering in and out of the pousada. The space itself is wonderful - the views from the deck are stunning, and Nadkarni's paintings (many of which are available to buy) cover much of the wall space.
The Maze is easily reached by taxi, and those who wish to attend the Friday night jazz jams can take advantage of a free combi van service to and from Catete. Rates for rooms start at R$100 for a double, R$80 for a single, and drinks prices start at R$6 for a glass of - well, this is a jazz club - red or white wine. Entrance to the jazz night is R$10.
For more information on the guest house and/or the live music programme, visit www.jazzrio.com
Hostel at the heart of the party
Lapa is Rio's party central, and if you want to stay right at the heart of the action, your best bet is Sambavilla Hostel. The hostel is located right next to the famous Lapa Arches, where partiers gather in their thousands at weekends. Samba Villa offers bed, breakfast and internet for the bargain price of R$20 - making it one of the cheapest hostels in Rio. Accomodation is dorm-style, but all rooms have A/C, and the downstairs bar is a popular Lapa meeting place. Open to the public, there are regular live music performances here, and friendly staff are always onhand to whip up a tasty caipirinha.
The hostel opened less than two years ago, so fixtures and fittings are all spanking new - no saggy mattresses here!
Be warned though, Sambavilla is not the place to stay if you want to get a few nights' rest and relaxation. This is very much a party hostel, and with the street festivities carrying on past dawn, you'll need to be in the mood to join in. To find out more, you can visit the hostel's website at www.sambavilla.com
Hotel Glória
If you're looking for a hotel with bags of personality and historic charm, Hotel Glória is the place. This the grande dame of Rio's hotels - predating even the majestic Copacabana Palace. The hotel was inaugurated in 1922 by President Epitácio Pessoa, and its antique furnishings, low wooden ceilings and ornate lamps hark back to that bygone age.
Located close to the heart of Rio in the downtown neighbourhood of Glória, the hotel has wonderful tropical gardens, an excellent fitness centre with views out across Guanabara Bay, and two large pools.
While much of the hotel has the feel of a museum, however, the recently-added annex is completely lacking in charm or character - make sure you ask for a room in the historic part of the hotel when making your booking.
Prices are higher for rooms overlooking Flamengo beach, and some of those at the back look directly into the living rooms of the apartments opposite!
Despite this, Hotel Glória remains one of Rio's best-loved hotels, and is a personal favourite of mine. The upstairs corridors are lined with images of the great and good who have stayed here, and you can soak in Belle Epoque opulance while paying a fraction of the price charged at Copacabana Palace.
Come at the right time and you might even catch a glimpse of Brazilian president Lula - he's a repeat guest here, thanks in no small part to the helicopter landing pad on the hotel's roof.
Hotel Marina All Suites
For a luxury hotel with a difference, look no further than Hotel Marina All Suites, in upmarket Leblon. The hotel sits directly in front of the beach, and is comprised of just 37 suites in a lofty high rise building. While suites on the lower floors are smart but relatively basic, those on the upper levels have each been signed by a different designer, and offer every luxury imaginable - from plunge pools to powerful stereo systems.
The hotel's location close to Leblon's chic bars, boutiques and restaurants have made it a firm favourite with Brazilian and international celebrities who want to avoid the prying eyes of the paparazzi (those who want to sleep between the same sheets as a supermodel may be interested to know that Gisele's favourite suite is the Diamante...).
As well as a rooftop pool with fantastic ocean views, the top floor of the building boasts one of Rio's most fashionable bars, Bar D'Hotel, where the city's 'gente bonita' (beautiful people), gather to eat, drink, and pose.
The bar is open to non-guests, and cocktails here are pricey but very good - if your budget will only stretch to one drink here, try the Royal - vodka, Cointreau, lime and ginger (R$14); or the Caipirubi - vodka with mixed red berries (R$16). The menu has a strong emphasis on finger food; from mini hamburgers made with lamb and foie gras, to mini bruschettas topped with everything from sundried tomato and buffallo mozzeralla to shiitake mushroom.
Prices for the suites range from around R$370 to R$800, and vary dramatically in terms of style - it's worth browsing the hotel's website (www.marinaallsuites.com.br) to choose the suite that most appeals.
Service at the hotel is impeccable, and there are numerous quirky touches such as a bar/living room for entertaining guests, and a state-of-the art home cinema. Both can be pre-booked, and reception staff will arrange for requested films to be picked up, free of charge, from nearby rental stores.
Ouro Verde Hotel
All too often, Copacabana beachfront hotels tend to be overpriced, lacking in character, or both. Refreshingly, Ouro Verde is neither. This 1950s building sits at the Leme end of Avenida Atlantica (the road that runs alongside the beachfront) and is full of kooky art deco touches. The location is nice and quiet (for Copa), and at around R$250-300 or a double room, the price is excellent for the location.
Front-facing rooms on the upper floors have lovely views over the beach and the ocean, while some of those at the back look up to Corcovado and the Christ statue. Downstair, there's an old-fashioned 'drawing room' with (admittedly a little tatty) antique chairs and tables, plus stacks of newspapers and magazines to help you brush up on your Portuguese!
The hotel's restaurant is French-themed, and is kitted out to vaguely resemble a Parisan bistro. Meals here are hardly the best in RIo, but you will get a good breakfast.
The hotel also has its own bar, open to the public, which has been recently refurbished and now fancies itself as something of a fashionable 'youth' venue, with regular DJs, live bands, and good cocktails. Much of Rio's best nightlife is a cab ride away from the hotel, but if you want Copacabana beachfront accomodation with character and at a decent price, this is your best bet.