Description: Once a name associated with impeccable sushi, Tom Thai has branched out with the opening of this little resto. Chef hasn’t completely abandoned his fondness for raw fish, but here he serves it ceviche-style, marinating sea bream in citrusy yuzu and shiso leaf. Stunning lamb and duck dumplings can barely contain their fillings. The kitchen isn’t afraid to get Cro-Magnon: tea-smoked quail is heady, while meaty pork ribs require not only a finger bowl but possibly a post-dinner bath.
The bare-bones decor is in keeping with the tenor of this gentrifying west Toronto ’hood – the strip club next door brings new meaning to the concept of dinner and a show.