Kreuzberg has two different faces. During the 1970s, innumerable run-down 19th century buildings around Hallesches Tor and Kottbusser Tor were pulled down to make way for modern tower blocks. The result—An anonymous concrete jungle. However, in the area around the Landwehrkanal—the canal which divides southern Berlin in two—residents successfully demonstrated against the demolition of their beloved old city quarter. It is here that you'll discover the other side of Kreuzberg. Careful renovation and subtle innovation have helped preserve one of Berlin's traditional working-class quarters. The best example is to be found on Fraenkelufer, a road which runs parallel to the canal. Alongside traditional houses painted in warm Mediterranean colours, futuristic modern constructions rise up from slim concrete pillars. Space has been left between the houses for flower-beds and trees. A round of applause for the architects please!