Address: 1788, rue Amirault, Dieppe, New Brunswick
Description: The oldest house (built in 1828) in Dieppe is serving some very modern food. Chef Emmanuel Charretier is the one-man kitchen brigade in this family operation, where wife Hélène Legras runs the front of the house and her father hand-painted each plate. No wonder the restaurant feels so welcoming.
The setting may be quaint, but there’s a playfulness to the meal. Translucent sheets of lobster sashimi marinated in olive oil and balsamic resemble a psychedelic light show with the addition of green tea powder and fresh herbs. Sticky squab breast rests alongside a leg stuffed with foie gras, joined by braised cabbage. The confit of figs and vanilla ice cream with gingerbread crumbs was among the year’s best desserts.