Chef Claudio Aprile (formerly of Senses) has the confidence to create elaborate dishes that approach but never quite go over the top. Venison crudo with pickled oyster mushrooms, palm sugar dressing, golden beets and watercress resembles a still life and tastes like a surprise party. His prawn ceviche partners with two aiolis – squid ink and saffron – that bring a soft creaminess to balance out the bright acidity.
Manicured women in expensive dresses dine with men sporting flashy watches, and even the staff resemble hedge fund managers in their crisp, striped shirts. Still, there is an egalitarian air to the restaurant, and a communal table anchors the room. The post-apocalyptic-chic esthetic leaves the brick raw and the beams rough. The expensive wine list is mollified by a good selection of wines by the glass, and a range of sake options points to that libation’s ability to pair well with complex dishes. Cheesecake comes as a surprise for this ambitious kitchen, but the passion fruit gelée and sweet curry anglaise reinterpret this suburban standard for an urbane audience.